Perhaps I was the victim of my own expectations, but the Hofbräuhaus was a disappointment. After all, I’m from Milwaukee, the ex-beer capitol of the Untied States. I made extensive use of one of their famous mugs throughout my beer-drenched college years at the University of Wisconsin, which had the only on-campus beer hall in the US. I had visited beer halls from the US to Asia to other cities in Germany, like Düsseldorf and Frankfurt. I had heard such great stories about the place that Tom and I made a point of visiting it as soon as we could unpack our bags and find our way to Marienplatz, behind which this perhaps most famous beer hall in the world is located.
It was founded in 1589, when Wilhelm V., Duke of Bavaria, was dissatisfied with the beer brewed in Munich. Some of his councilors approached him with an idea: why not build their own brewery? Wilhelm welcomed the plan, and on that same day, he recruited the master brewer of a famous monastery to plan, develop, and brew good brown ale. This brown ale is still available, though the lighter lager, the so-called Hofbrau Original, is preferred by most of the patrons. I believe the place is now run by the Sperger family, who’ve had it for over 100 years.
History aside, the place was packed and noisy, partially because of the oompah band that was playing in the main dining room. Customers can volunteer as guest conductors, and a number of them did while we were there. The first downer was finding a place to sit, which we finally were able to do by cajoling some folks to let us squeeze in at their table.
We were served by a surly, unresponsive, scowling waiter, for whom I eventually left an overly generous 0.10 Euro tip. We couldn’t get his attention, and when we did, it took forever for the beer to be delivered. We ordered another immediately to ensure a continuous flow, and the waiter was not happy when we told him why we doing so. The ladies selling pretzels were a little friendlier when we bought one of the 3 Euro monsters.
Later we noticed that a couple tables of customers were singing and enjoying themselves when the manager asked them to stop because they were too loud. We were stupefied. What the hell happened to
gemütlichkeit? Having been in a number of German beer halls where singing is encouraged, I still have trouble believing what I saw. After our second beer, we were so turned off, we left.
I found out later that there is a banquet hall in the Hofbräuhaus-owned Platzl Hotel next door that does have singing and dancing, along with a buffet, but it’s all organized and reportedly not very spontaneous. As the review in the Beer Drinkers Guide said, "Hofbräuhaus is getting just a little too big for its leather britches." I concur.