Located on a charming little square full of orange trees near the cathedral, in a narrow building that reminded me of a fairytale, this small theater opens up every night for two flamenco shows, at 9pm and 11pm. It might be a good idea to book ahead – I got there 20 min early thinking I had plenty of time and there was a long line of people waiting to get in. I was lucky to get a seat since everyone else seemed to have reservations, and probably wouldn't have if I were with other people.

The show, with a burlesque touch to it, lasted for an hour and a half, and kept me staring at the dancers with an admiring gaze. The performers were just incredible, with their proud faces and colorful costumes. I was enchanted by the way they moved to the rhythm of the guitar and the voice of the singer, the way the soles of their shoes became almost another instrument perfectly synchronized with the music. I was in awe of their firey attitudes and music oozing out of their bodies, and absolutely loved the flamenco guitarists and singers – there's a pathos to that flamenco sound that I identify with in a strange way. Up until that point, I've only seen Joaquín Cortés perform on TV, which I really enjoyed, but it doesn't come even close to a live performance of flamenco. This is an absolute must if you visit Sevilla.

Los Gallos is great, although frequented by tourists. If you're looking for something really authentic, venture out to the barrio of Triana across the river, which is the traditional home of the gypsy community and flamenco dancers and musicians. I've heard you can get lucky there and stumble upon impromptu flamenco sessions. If you decide to go, it's best to do it with a group, as that part of town can get sketchy. If you're solo, stick to Barrio Santa Cruz – there's plenty of good flamenco on offer if you look.