Madrid has the best nightlife in the world. It does not start up until 11-12:00 and winds down about 12 hours later. The Madrilenos have a saying - the French need eight hours sleep, the Spanish only four. The group of streets surrounding Cheuca subway station are incredible. This is the alternative area of Madrid, immortalised by Pedro Almodovar in his movies. Peopled with hip people, gays, students and just those wanting to have a good time - the place is bursting with life.
To experience the Spanish capital to the full - you must partake of the nightlife. In the height of the Castile summer were the heat does not die down until 11.00pm the Madrilenos begin their nights on the town. But to have a really good night out you must stay up until dawn. There are so many places to experience this in Madrid. The best is probably Malasana and Cheuca - two working class districts north of the Gran Via. The best way to enter them is from Call Hortaleza, its southern end is the Gran Via metro stop. Calle Hortaleza will take you through the heart of Cheuca which is the most flambuoyant part of Madrid. Leading up this street were Tapas bars, gyms, restaurants, sex-shops, discos and alternative bars. The residents stood on balconies and enjoyed cigarettes while watching the circus down below.
Cheuca and Malasana have quite a buzz. If you want direction to your wanderings (and be careful this is still the red-light district)then head for Plaza de Cheuca. This is the heart of the gay community in Madrid and numerous bars around attest to this. But Madrilenos of all persuasions gather here to have a good night out. During the day there is are cafes and fishmongers, when night falls it becomes alive with fire-eaters, musicians and while we were there an inpromptu fashion show occur with scantily clad hunks and women parading up and down.
If you really want a true taste of Cheuca and to get a feel of the bizarreness of the Almodovar movies - head for the LL Bar. At midnight they have entertainment. And I'm telling you, you have not lived until you have seen a flamenco drag queen! Viva Cheuca! Viva Madrid!