We approached the Temple Bar region of Dublin over the Ha’penny Bridge. This bridge, built in 1816, used to charge a toll of a halfpenny (it's free now!). Indeed it had just been restored when we visited, so the high humpback bridge had been fitted out with original period lanterns and was looking superb.
Merchants Arch, the traditional entrance to the Temple Bar, leads to a short, narrow, and dark alley lined with shops–it feels a bit like the beginnings of a bazaar–and then opens up into the bright modern area known as the Temple Bar Square. The area of Temple Bar is named after Sir William Temple, who acquired the land in the 1600s and "bar" refers to (I didn’t know this until we visited Dublin) a riverside path. By the mid 1800s it was a thriving business area that was, following a period of serious decline, rejuvenated in the 1960s when artists and retailers "invaded" the neglected buildings.
Now it’s a buzzing place full of high-quality restaurants, coffeeshops, small exclusive shops, and of course, artists’ outlets and studios. Weave your way through the cobbled streets and alleyways, observe the overstated murals on some of the buildings, and just take in the atmosphere. If you’re like us, you’ll double back on yourself, but it really won’t matter, as the place is alive in the daytime. At night it’s positively buzzing.
At the far end of Temple Bar is the winding Fishamble Street, which has history going back to the mid 1600s, when it was the focus of the local fish trade. Also, it was in a building, long since demolished, on this street that Handel conducted the debut performance of Messiah.
Cross over Dame Street and head for the castle district. We didn’t have time to tour the castle, but there are some photo opportunities en route, along with some superb old properties, including the hostel for sick "room keepers," founded in 1790, and "the Long Hall," housing a typical old-fashioned Irish bar (not quite sure what that’s like now that Ireland has imposed its non-smoking rule).
The Powerscourt Townhouse was originally a mansion built in the 1770s for Viscount Powerscourt (whoever he might have been!), but is now an exclusive shopping centre for specialist galleries, antique shops, and jewellers. It has retained several original features, including some fine stuccowork, while a glass dome encloses a central courtyard, making it a good place to take an afternoon tea. Whilst you’re in shopping mode, take a trip to the nearby Covered Market on Drury Street, especially good for antique jewellery, but also for an interesting mosey.
When walking around this district, keep looking upwards, as there are some interesting signs, decorated facades, and wall plaques. These can be spotted particularly along the banks of the Liffey, away from O’Connell Bridge. We liked the terracotta decoration on the Sunlight Chambers on Essex Quay that confirmed its main purpose of a soap manufacturer.