Last time we visited, we enjoyed the exterior, as well as taking coffee in the fabulous Kavarna cafe, where a trolley is slowly wheeled round offering delectable cakes to be taken with coffee. Sure, service was a little slow, but the surroundings more than made up for that.

As well as the cafe, there is an apparently renowned restaurant and, down the symmetrical stairs, the American Bar.

This time, the upside of the October 28th weekend was that they were having an open day. I had planned on booking a tour anyway - but no need! We did have to queue, which at first made the heart sink, but it wasn't as long as it first appeared and was moving fast enough, so we joined it.

And I'm so glad we did. The place is just fabulous. From the entry hall to the theatre, bar rooms, and lounges, every room is done to a T - no little detail is missed. Art Nouveau from top to tail: beautiful mirrors, painted ceilings, mosaic fountains, carved wooden panels, chandeliers, and tiles - light and airy throughout. Nothing has been skimped on; every detail has been considered and designed, right down to handles and stair rails. Even the cloakroom is stylish. It's all been restored and maintained and looks like new. We wandered around with always something to point at and exclaim over - everywhere you looked there was something wonderful. It felt like a step back in time to another age.

(The website is full of all the historical details - too many artists and designers to mention here - including the greats, such as Mucha.)

If you like Art Nouveau - and I most certainly do - this place is unmissable. You may not get the open day, but I'd cheerfully have paid for a tour, and so should you.