Description: Slightly amazing but true—as ubiquitous as the caipirinha is in Rio, and as simple as making one seems to be, you’ll often find yourself hard pressed to find a really good rendition of Brazil’s national drink while making the rounds of Rio’s bars. Some places even commit the blasphemy of asking whether you want yours made with artificial sweetener. I wish I were kidding.
Of course, as long as the sugar is real, the lime is fresh, and the cachaca (Brazil’s sugar cane spirit) is half-decent, it’s pretty hard to get a lousy caipirinha. But for a really great one, the first place I’d go is a small bar on a quiet residential block in Leblon. Despite its droll name, the Academia de Cachaca is newish and somewhat charmless—you might as well be in a mall. Don’t let that put you off, however. This place serves the best caipirinhas I've ever tasted, even better—and way less expensive—than the ones at the famed Copacabana Palace.
Just score yourself an outdoor table, if you can, and delve into the massive drinks menu. (Later on, take a peek at the tiny bar area inside to see the 3-D Brazilian flag bearing down on you from the ceiling, surrounded by—what else?—cachaca bottles.)
More than 500 varieties of cachaca from all over Brazil are available here, as well as caipirinhas made with passion fruit, lemon, and an assortment of tropical fruits in addition to the traditional lime. The menu can be an intimidating experience for the first-timer, but there’s no cause for anxiety. Whatever you choose will be good (though I was a little put off by the passion fruit seeds). My favorite is the caipirinha made with Providencia cachaca and brown sugar. And the waiters, though their English is generally as bad as my Portuguese, somehow manage to make useful suggestions.
Many brands, including some that are otherwise very difficult to find, are available for sale by the bottle. The prices are higher than what you’d pay in a supermarket (no surprises there), but still very reasonable.
I wouldn’t make a special trip just for the food, which offers a quick survey course of Brazilian regional cooking. But if after a couple of drinks you decide to hang for dinner, you'll be in good shape.
Although the Academia da Cachaca that I know is in Leblon, there’s a second outpost in Barra da Tijuca (or just Barra, if you’re a Carioca). However, unless you know people who live out that way, there’s little reason for you to visit Barra.
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