First off, a disclaimer: I'm not able to provide a comprehensive review of every place in Sofia...owners, names, and locations change so frequently it's hard to establish a "must see" list...what follows is a list of my perennial favourites.

For a start, I would recommend the "Insiders' Guide" to Sofia, in English and French, available free at every hotel, or have a go at deciphering "programmata" or "7 days in Sofia", available everywhere, but only in BG (sorry!). For better directions, try www.bgmaps.com. Have fun!

I have divided the list into appropriate categories below, for your convenience:

1. Best place for pub grub: Sofia's rash of Irish pubs are a good place to start. J.P. Murphy's: Pozitano 16. A real Irish bar with real Irish beer and a cool atmosphere...last time I was there some British guy was playing Beatles songs. Not recommended if you don't like hanging out with expats. Also try Dublin Pub, the Irish Harp, and Flannagan's in the Radisson hotel, which on Wednesdays has a Mexican buffet plus all you can drink margaritas.

2. Best Beer Garden: My vote goes to Halbite (mugs): 6th Septemvri at Neofit Rilski St., which has Czech and BG beer on tap for cheap, great bar snacks, and cool staff and clientele. Located off a backstreet in the starving artist district. Other recommendations are Pri Kmeta (with the mayor), Birarija Schwelk, and Bitburger.

3. Moving on…laid-back bars are Sofia's strong point, and there are great places everywhere. For chill drinking I like Tri Ushi (three ears), tucked into a basement at Rakovski 6. Hambara (the barn) is filled with candles and By the Way has super-hip décor and great cocktails.

4. Best nightclub: aka best place to get laid in a public restroom: Newly opened Sin City on bul. Hristo Botev features four nightclubs with different music/themes in the same huge building. For better or worse, it's Sofia's most talked-about new venue. Hordes of pretty young things also frequent Briliantin, Chervilo (lipstick) and Lodkite (the boats), an outdoor disco in the Borisova Gradina.

5. Live music! Unless you speak Bulgarian, it's tough to get the word on what's going on, so try to ask around. My all-time favourite is the Swingin' hall on blvd. Dragan Cankov (across the canal from Graf Ignatiev St./tram no. 14), open late with two stages and an unpretentious and friendly clientele. Also try Backstage, with live music every night, club Maskata in Student's town.

7. Pop-folk. Dismissed by many Bulgarians as "trucker music", the "Chalga" generation is such a cultural force here that it must be mentioned. In short, big-breasted singers sing oriental-sounding techno-ish music about living and loving. Bulgarian girls cheer and dance provocatively. Try club Planeta on northern Blvd. Vitosha, or club BIAD for the ultimate chalga experience.

Embarrasing photos to come soon!