Like most seaside towns, Falmouth has its share of decent pubs to cater for the swarms of tourists that visit in summer and for the locals who like to huddle around a roaring log fire in the depths of winter. I took a stroll around the town, picked out what looked like three good ones, and had a swift half in each of them.The first I tried was the Mason’s Arms at the lower end of Killigrew Street. This is an old fashioned pub with a roaring fire, low ceilings and a high proportion of locals sat around the wooden tables, seeking refuge from the cold outside. The pub is a St Austell house with a good range of beautifully kept ales on draught. Indeed, the pub has the “Casque Marque” award displayed proudly outside the front door, indicating its excellence of beer. The place had a good atmosphere and the landlord seemed to know most of the folk in there. They serve a limited range of food, although this is pretty much standard pub fare.
Next stop was the Grapes in Church Street, close to the fish quay. This corner pub is a free house and again had a good range of ales on tap. The views from the back bar windows were superb, looking out across the harbour, fish quay and boat yards. Not surprisingly, fish features predominantly on the menu here with all types available as well as crab and prawn specialities. This place certainly caters for everyone with its “open mike” evenings and other regular events to keep the punters entertained. It was warm and cosy inside and everyone I saw looked very happy with their situation.
Final and best stop was the well-known Chain Locker, sat on the fish quay but with an entrance on Church Street as well as the one by the harbour. This is a rambling, antiquated building that has been a pub since the 1740’s. It serves Skinner’s beers and a good range was available here today. The place was busy with locals as well as very late holidaymakers , sheltering from the icy blasts from the water-side. This is what a pub is all about; low beams, lots of nautical paraphernalia, fishing nets and buoys, superb “Cornish” atmosphere and a good set of bar staff.
I settled into a window seat with a great view of the harbour. With the wind whistling outside, the fire roaring away inside, a glass of best Skinner’s beer, a pasty the size of a dustbin lid and a rapidly struck conversation with a couple from Canada, I really wished that I was staying tonight, and didn’t have to drive back to Polperro in an hour’s time. Such is life…