Las Brujas was recommended to us by a Sevilliana as one of the most authentic flamenco tablaos in all of Seville. We took her at her word and found ourselves enjoying one of the most spirited cultural experiences of our lives. The tablao is decorated in typical Sevillian style and is located in a traditional and popular neighborhood easily reached by taxi.
Visiting Seville in early November, the traditional season for flamenco had long past and since there were many fewer tourists at that time of year, the hall, unfortunately was empty except for we four and about 8 other people. What a shame! It may have been due to the fact that we attended the early show at 9:00 p.m. Sevillianos dine at what is for Americans a very late hour. We suspected that the "cool" thing would have been to attend the 11:30 performance instead.
None the less, the performers danced, sang, played and clapped their hearts out without regard to the size of their audience. No narrative accompanies the performance and none is necessary. A varied folkloric show, it combines the pure and genuine flamenco art with classic Spanish song and dance performed by professionals. It mattered not a whit that none of us understood Spanish because no language is necessary. Somehow, you understand. The movements of the dancers and their flying feet tell a story that is an accompaniment to the music and becomes another instrument.
Flamenco is an experience for all the senses. Naturally, you are drawn to the movements of the dancers and as the wood splinters beneath their feet you marvel at the training and dedication it must take to perform the way they do. But to miss the music of flamenco would be to miss the music that portrays the spirt of Spain. You experience the Asian and African roots of the music in the clapping and chanting of the singers and dancers as they encourage each performer to continue. At the end of the evening we found ourselves almost as exhausted as the sweating, heaving dancers. You cannot help but feel their energy and their enthusiasm as you watch them perform rituals that have been passed down for generations.
Seville is the home of flamenco and to miss a performance while staying in that wonderful city would be a shame. Las Brujas is the only authentic tablao we have ever seen, but we would return again when we are in Seville and would definitely try others as well. We are hooked! The tablao performance area is separated from the bar and is air-conditioned. No smoking is allowed during the performance. Dinner and drinks are served prior to the performance and during intermissions. Price for ticket is approximately $31 US.