We visited Camogli on a day trip from Genoa. We had spent the day wandering around Camogli, strolling up to the church of S Rocco that overlooks the town, and taking the boat to the church of S Fruttuoso on the tip of the Portofino Peninsula. While the weather had been grey when we arrived around midday, the clouds had lifted during the day and the portside pastel-coloured buildings were glowing in the late afternoon sunshine.
There are several bars and cafés that line the Camogli waterfront. We chose the one – Bar Auriga (Via Garibaldi 147, tel: 0185 770262) – with the big terrace jutting over the pebble beach. To our left, children were playing soccer on a neighbouring rooftop, and occasionally the ball would be thrown up to them if it escaped to the beach. To our right, the town merry-go-round had been started up and seemed to be doing reasonable business. We ordered a beer and a gelato and settled in to watch the sunset.
Sitting on the Bar Auriga terrace was very relaxing. We could hear the sea lapping on the pebbles below and the occasional chimes of the church at the end of the beach. We watched a couple of small fishing boats chug past and saw a few cormorants heading for their nesting colony on the Portofino Peninsula. Nobody else shared our terrace, and we happily sat there until the sun disappeared into the haze on the horizon.
Our beer and gelato at Bar Auriga was expensive (9.20€, with a few peanuts) but worth it for the setting and relaxed occasion. We paid with cash. Nobody else shared our terrace, and this was a great way to end an excellent day.
London, United Kingdom
February 18, 2005
From journal Camogli - between Genoa and Portofino