Editor Pick
Always Decent, Sometimes Great
- May 28, 2009
- Rated 3 of 5 by
Wasatch from heber ctity, Utah
Visitors golfing in Heber Valley can stay in Heber Valley, Park City, Sundance, or even Salt Lake City. Spring, summer, and fall at the famed ski ski resort center, Park City, is the low season, with greatly reduced rates compared to winter. Park City is an easy, scenic 30 minute drive from Heber Valley's golf courses. If you are staying in Park City, or even if you stay in Heber Valley, eating at one of Park City's many fine restaurants– "More Chef’s per capita that Paris– ran one ad, should be considered. So we take a look at Ghidotti’s Italian Restaurant.
Veal Marsala was a nice dish bearing questionable resemblance to Veal Marsala. The nicely breaded veal was overcooked, making it on the tough side for veal– a struggle to cut with the side of the fork. Lacking any hint of Marsala, the skimpy sauce would merit raves had it been called "Brown pan gravy". Maybe it was meant to like that, but more likely the kitchen overcooked the sauce, driving off the delicate flavors of Marsala. The accompanying crimi mushrooms were nicely sauted, no problem here. The accompanying Arugala salad was a fine example of the popular yuppie abomination, Arugala salad. It was greatly improved by adding some of the terrific fruity flavored olive oil and balsamic vinegar that was on the table. Like I said, a nice dinner, just don’t expect Veal Marsala because the menu said it was. Come to think of it, there was no excuse given the sparse crowd for the kitchen to produce this dish. Go for Sea Bass, which was spectacular on previous visits.
Service was the usual excellent standard Ghidotti’s has maintained over 3-4 years and the decor is free of signs of wear and tear.
On past visits we have had three dishes were real stand outs– Three Cheese Lasagne (no meat sauce), Pork Osso Bucco, and grilled Sea Bass. The Three Cheeses Lasagne was loaded with three different Italian cheeses, and is the second best lasagna I’ve ever eaten– truly outstanding, and unfortunately long gone from the menu, replaced by a more traditional meat sauce lasagna that is good enough for a meat sauce lasagne, but the three Cheese one was special.
Both of us have had Sea Bass twice. The first time around, both were absolutely
perfectly cooked. Properly cooked fish is rarely encountered in any
restaurant in Utah, so Ghidotti’s got five stars for that, but the next two
servings were just a bit overcooked, still outstanding for Utah, but a small
step down from the first round. On both occasions, the fish was as fresh
as can be expected 1,000 miles from the nearest Ocean (it is possible to
get fish flown in from both coasts overnight in Park City and Salt Lake
City, which comes pretty close to being fresh fish). The thick piece of
browned crisp fish was served over a nice gremola of seasonal veggies.
Roast chicken in rosemary and garlic had no noticeable rosemary flavor, but the
garlic stuffed under the skin was mild and far from offending. The side
dishes– carrots, broccollini, and mashed potatoes were just about
perfect. On the downside, the chicken was way over cooked and dried out.
The lack of any noticeable rosemary flavor, probably another consequence
of overcooking, and the dry meat leads me to veto this dish. Don’t bother.
Braised Lamb Shank (a daily special, now a main menu item) was fine, but not terrific. Nicely
cooked so the meat was all but falling off the bone, and accompanied by a
good vegetable mix & excellent mashed potatoes. Unfortunately, the accompanying brown
sauce did nothing to highlight any of the flavors, but it was OK.
I don’t like Ravioli, but every now and then I try some just to be sure
that my dislike was not the result of an incompetent kitchen. Ghidotti’s
is the second best I’ve ever had, but it did nothing to change my opinion
of this dish. I guess if you like Ravioli, you will like this.
The rather erratic nature of the quality of Ghidotti's food reminds us that restaurant reviews need to be based on multiple visits, not one meal. Someone visiting Ghidotti's on one of heir good nights with Sea Bass would mistakenly conclude this was a spectacularly fine restaurant. Someone hitting the dried out insipid chicken would mistakenly conclude it was a grossly overpriced,incompetent place. The truth is in between, sometimes great, sometimes not..
The wine list is absurdly expensive, starting at $34 a bottle and rapidly going up. This is not unusual for Utah.
The menu includes three pasta dishes including a vegetarian one, roast chicken, pork osso bucco, sea bass, veal, beef, and a variety of appetizers. The menu changes at least twice a year, but you can always count on the basics– pasta, beef, pork , and lamb, chicken, and sea food being represented in some Italian motif.
The bottom line seems to be that Ghidotti’s is somewhat erratic. When it on, it is terrific. When it is off, it is not bad, but not outstanding either. You pays your money and you takes your chances. Want a sure bet? Go to Jean-Louis in downtown Park City, but don’t count the slightly less expensive Ghidotti’s out. It is worth a try.
The high ceilinged attractive Italian inspired dining room is spacious with lots of windows, unfortunately offering only a view of the mall streets.
The menu is pricey, but during the off season, Ghidotti's, like many Park City restaurants, regularly puts a 2-for-1 coupon in the local paper, The Park Record (sold in boxes on Main St.) and on their web site. At that price, even one of their lapses is fine buy.
The free Park City bus will take you there. If you are driving,
exit I-80 on UT 224 to Park City (at Kimble Junction), turn left at the
second light, then take the first right into Redstone Mall. Ghidotti’s is
on the left about 3/4 the way down the mall’s main street.
From Park City, you will see Redstone Mall on the left just before a stop
light. Turn right, then right again as above. Free parking.
From journal Heber Valley Golf