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Liam Hetherington
Liam Hetherington
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4 out of 5
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29) Shiraz - "Do You Have Any Iranian Beer?"

29) Shiraz - "Do You Have Any Iranian Beer?"

Iran – 23/05/09

If you are in an Iranian restaurant, don’t ask for an Iranian beer.

That comment is actually a bit unfair on the wonderful Shiraz in Northenden. For starters, it classes itself as a Persian restaurant. I’m not sure whether this is simply because the name ‘Iran’ passes as a swear-word in some quarters, or whether because ‘Persian’ tastes (the word conjuring up images of imperial splendour, learned culture, and refined luxury) differ from those in today’s devout and austere Iran. But a visit to Shiraz certainly evokes those images of glorious Persia.

Frankly, the restaurant gets a bonus star just for its internal decoration. It is probably the most attractive interior of a restaurant I’ve visited so far this year. In fact, one might even say it was slightly over-decorated. The windows are inset with stained glass panels to mute the (on this trip) bright May sunshine. Stars spot the ceiling. The walls are hung with framed tourist posters, a chainmail suit of armour complete with helmet, and vivid tiles. I had noticed before that unlike conventional Islamic decoration, Persian images tended to veer from the purely geometrical to include actual depictions of nature and individuals. So there were glazed tiles depicting archers and warriors from the region’s medieval past. Best of all, we were sat at a tile-topped table which showed birds apprearing from a knot of plantlife; the colours glowed with gemstone-bright pigments.

There were three of us for dinner – myself, Paul, and Al, with whom I am in a number of drama socities. It was Al who asked whether they served Iranian beer, a question that elicited an explosion of amused shock from our waitress. However, the question was not quite as absurd as it may seemed. Befitting a restaurant named after a city which gave its name to a grape (syrah) and a type of wine, Shiraz does have a wine list (no Iranian wine though), and also serves bottled beer (Heineken, Cobra, Corona etc). But sadly no Iranian beer. As it was all three of us requested mint tea. This came served in three individual shallow china teapots and sherry-glass sized glasses. Frond of real mint filled the pots, and sugar was provided to flavour to taste – the tea was not oversweet when served.

The menu at Shiraz is not the largest in the world – probably eight-or-so starters, and around a dozen entrees. Still, this comprised a far-ranging and intriguing selection of dishes. Considering how much of a picky eater I was as a child, I was happy to note that – if only in the name of experimentation – I would be happy to order anything off it. Possibly the one dish I would have been wary of was the one Al ordered for his starter – chicken liver. This came as grainy and flavourful sugar-lump-sized chunks of liver in a dark liver-flavoured liquor. As far as I was concerned, one piece was quite enough; there was no way I’d have been able to finish that whole dish.

However, my starter I could quite happily have eaten more of. Labelled as khufta it was the local transliteration / pronunciation of the Turkish kofte or Greek keftedes. I had read that Persian food was fond of incorporating fruit elements, and this was no exception. At heart it was an orange-sized ball of succulent minced lamb, but it was also flavoured with ingredients such as chickpeas, plum, and walnut. So obviously it was not suitable for those with nut allergies – as the menu did warn. It also warned that there might be the odd plum stone in the dish, and sure enough I did find one. The khufta was served in a plum and walnut sauce, a sauce so wonderfully sharp that it actually caused a pain at the very back of my jaw! These were not sweet plums, but pretty sour wild plums. The use of grated walnut, an ingredient I would never normally think of using, did add something to the flavour too. Frankly, it was a great first course.

Fruit and nuts flavours also influenced my main course. But here I have to admit that it was not quite so enjoyable to my western palate. I ordered fesanjaan. This was chicken pieces in a thick treacle-black stew of ground walnuts and pomegranate puree. To be honest, it was a stupid choice by me. While I like pomegranates, I find drinking pomegranate juice too acrid for my taste. Really, I can only cope with it in small quantities. What then did I expect from a dish in a pomegranate sauce? It had a very rich, very sour taste, and I would have struggled to eat the chunks of chicken had it not been for the massive heap of fluffy Persian rice delivered for the three of us to share. As it was I managed all the chicken, but half the khoresht, or stew, was left. This should not be a criticism of the chef; I’m quite sure this is an authentic Persian taste. But it was not for me.

Paul was on safer ground with joojeh kebab - grilled chicken flavoured with lemon and saffron. Al had two kebabs in one, a dish that saw him served a khubideh kebab of ground lamb mince and a slice of barg, a grilled thin fillet of beef. As mentioned, a vast amount of fluffy rice was served to accompany it, as were flat unleavened breads.

For £42, the three of us were pleasantly stuffed. For me it was a voyage into the unknown due to the Iranian prediliction for combining the tastes of fruit, nut and meat in a way that doesn’t really occur here in the UK. And while I didn’t really like my main course, it was a valuable learning experience – and even then I still got through most of it. Maybe Shiraz should think of serving the fesanjaan in a smaller portion as a farter, and the khufta in a larger portion as a main? I would certainly order the khufta here again. And I would certainly return again. It is a fab, cheery, ornate place – and I’m not sure I would have suspected just what was in store for me from its somewhat plain exterior on Palatine Road. It is definitely one to recommend. Though I warn you now – don’t ask if they have any Iranian beer!

(There are a few Iranian places in Manchester. The nearest direct comparison to Shiraz I can think of is Persia on Barlow Moor Road in Chorlton, though I have never dined there. I must admit, I was originally planning to review a simple kebab takeaway for Iran – Caspian on Wilmslow Road in Rusholme. This was my favourite place for a chicken tikka kebab in naan bread with salad – and owner Maz’s famous ‘special sauce’ – when I lived in Rusholme. It also served a select few Iranian dishes which I never ordered but always intended to. However, it was a recommendation from a friend which swayed my mind to try out Shiraz. And boy, am I glad I did!)

From journal Around the World in 80 Meals! (part 3)

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