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SeenThat
SeenThat
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5 out of 5
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Editor Pick

A Coffee with Garlic Bread, Please

  • February 25, 2009
  • Rated 5 of 5 by SeenThat from Tel Aviv, Israel
A Coffee with Garlic Bread, Please



Occupying a large chunk of the Chao Phraya riverfront, Thammasat University has the best promenade along the Chao Phraya River. Beyond being tastefully designed and providing an awesome place for enjoying a coffee, it offers an almost unparalleled view of the river. Passenger and freight boats, Thonburi and bridges, all them compete for the traveler’s attention. As expected, small groups of students chat while ignoring the beauty surrounding them.

The buildings adjoining the small yard next to the promenade are worth a look as well, since they feature an eclectic mix untypical of Bangkok. A beautiful white arch frames the river. A spiky brown dome seems to have been imported from somewhere in Medieval Europe. A humble but worthy place to look for is the partial reconstruction of Bangkok’s original wall; the very low structure is next to the cafeterias and the promenade.

Where is Thammasat University?

Thammasat University is along the Chao Phraya riverside, and between Khaosan Road and the Grand Palace. The best way of reaching it is by foot from Khaosan, simply walking westwards toward the bridge, and then turning to the left. The university blocks the road after a minute or so. Suddenly, Khaosan Road international features seem far away; the place is very Thai in its look and ambience.

Where is my coffee?

The university features two students’ cafeterias just next to the promenade. Those aren’t right on the waterfront, but taking the coffee and snacks – or meal – to there and enjoying the sight of the passing boats is no problem. A wide arrange of stalls serves everything from Thai meals to imitations of western fast food; however the only coffee available is of the soluble type, or the Thai coffee if arriving early in the morning.

As often happens in Thailand, Western-style coffee gets tricky once the traveler gets away from the main commercial centers. Sometimes the problem in off-side locations is the shortcuts in the preparation, others an awkward serving. However, in Thammasat University I found a different problem: the good coffee was exiled out of the cafeterias and was placed on a small structure right at the northern entrance (the one nearest to Khaosan Road).

3’Or

The 3’Or coffee shop is tiny and divided equally between the preparation area and the serving one; the last features only one table. However, just outside – and away from the university gate – are a few stone tables and benches serving the few clients. Despite the river not being visible from this angle, the passing clientele of hurried students provides the perfect place for enjoying the coffee.

A decent cappuccino matches in quality those in Khaosan Road shiny coffee shops and is sold at about half price, 25 baht.

Unavoidable Snacks

Basic pastries, cookies and sweets are sold within the coffee shop; all of them are within small commercial packages.

The only item which was clearly prepared on the spot was garlic bread. Unlikely, these are a very popular Thai snack during the early morning. It is sold by street stalls placed all over the city. Probably its exotic shape and taste – both ingredients are foreign to Thai cuisine, as well as the hot toasts texture – are the main cause for its popularity. However, what may cause me extreme delight in an Italian restaurant seemed a bit out of place in a coffee shop and I skipped it.

I visited the place several times. In one of those I sat on one of the benches while looking into the shop. Avoiding the main entrance, two students entered the yard; one of them sat on the bench next to mine – putting a heavy stack of notebooks on the table – while the other entered to order their coffee. A few years ago I would have been surprised by the event, but by now a significant number of locals favor Western style coffee.

Shortly after, she left the shop with a small tray; two cups of steaming coffee and two garlic bread slices were on it. She gave one pair to her friend, sat among us, and turned towards me smiling.

"Want to try?" She said handing me half a slice.

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