La Maison Bleue

midtownmjd
midtownmjd
First Reviewer
5 out of 5
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1
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Editor Pick

One of Morocco’s Best Meals

  • January 17, 2009
  • Rated 5 of 5 by midtownmjd from New York, New York
One of Morocco’s Best Meals

From the moment you enter the Fez medina and walk into La Maison Bleue—through sky-high carved doors, down a blue-and-white-tiled hallway lined with luminaries, and into an interior courtyard aglow with candelabras—you know you’re in for a special experience, and the food and service do not disappoint.

We settled into a table in the courtyard, the focal point of the Maison Bleue riad and a sort of anteroom before meals are served, and were plied with cocktails and tasty snacks like popcorn, peanuts, salted almonds, olives, and pickled vegetables. Two gnaoua musicians played on the floor, filling the riad with perfect acoustics. Under their trance, and the influence of delicious Moroccan red wine, I could have happily sat there ogling the building’s artistry for hours. But we were soon moved to a cozy, round corner table off the courtyard for the main event.

Of the versions of high-end Moroccan cuisine I had on my trip, none were better than dinner at La Maison Bleue. We began—or continued—with traditional mezze of eggplant, cauliflower, peppers and tomatoes, potatoes, carrots, and lentils, followed by a spicy tagine of chicken with parsley and coriander. Next was a savory-sweet couscous with lamb, cinnamon, almonds, and powdered sugar and, for dessert, a giant, delicate, fragrant b’stilla layered with pastry and cream and accompanied by cinnamon-brushed orange slices—and, of course, mint tea.

All the while, the musicians played on, having followed us from the courtyard to the dining room, and, as dessert arrived, they played to a spectacular finale during which they danced so that the tassels of their hats swung around and around. I found myself wishing I knew Arabic, but even without a translator, their sounds were powerful.

A fixed-price dinner at La Maison Bleue costs 550 dirham (or about US$65) and includes the meal, freely flowing wine, water, and entertainment—and excellent, attentive service in a magical setting. The riad is also a hotel and spa, one I’d love to check into if I ever have the chance.

From journal Morocco: Medinas and Mezze

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