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Sopocachi Market: A Coffee at the Market

  • December 3, 2008
  • Rated 3 of 5 by SeenThat from Tel Aviv, Israel
Sopocachi Market: A Coffee at the Market



While preparing this journal, it seemed natural to try and fit in a colonial coffee experience. How did 19th century Bolivians drink coffee and tea? Despite knowing La Paz well, I couldn’t think of a suitable candidate. I asked around and people dismissed me; culinary memories do not exist in the Bolivian culture.

Luckily, markets provide wonderful insights into old times and traditions; thus they compensate for the lack of written traditions in many areas of the world. There is little doubt that the essence of Kashgar’s market had changed very little since Marco Polo visited there.

Bolivian Breakfasts at Sopocachi Market

Beyond the ubiquitous street markets, Bolivian cities feature traditional covered markets resembling very much Asian ones. The food products and house ware areas are almost identical in both places. The difference lies with the food plaza. Bolivian ones usually have smaller ones and are divided into morning stalls – serving breakfasts and coffee – and lunch areas that operate until the late afternoon. In Asian markets, every stall specializes on a dish, or related dishes, while in Bolivia the stalls are defined according to the meal they serve.

Sopocachi is one of the La Paz quarters; its lowest part reaches the main riverbed splitting the city and is thus part of downtown La Paz. Guachalla Street is just a few blocks away from the UMSA University – the main one in La Paz – and hosts the Sopocachi Market, a relic dating back a few centuries. That means reaching the market is a breeze from everywhere in downtown. Occupying much less than a block, the market cannot be a significant shopping center of the modern city; many stalls operated on the street. Yet, inside, the traveler can still meet a traditional market and drink a cup of coffee or tea.


Breakfast stalls in Bolivia are very humble. There is a small cooking area featuring a gas balloon, a kettle, a bottle of coffee concentrate, another of black tea concentrate and a jar filled with leaves and herbs used for the preparation of herbal infusions. Nearby are a tiny, old television showing the last soap-opera, and a couple of long benches on either side of a table. All customers share a single table, two in the largest establishments.

The breakfasts offered in the markets include from simple bread with a hot drink, to which a piece of cheese can be added, to sandwiches, the last include fried egg, minced meat and cold meats versions. The breads served here are typical of Bolivia – the commonest are called "marraquetas" and "sarnas" – and should be avoided; in official publications it had been made known that they contain bromates. These compounds are widely recognized as causing cancer and are prohibited in most of the world.

The only available cheese in the markets is of the solid white version and is extremely salty, I recommend tasting a little bit before considering it. Eggs are not recommended since they are not refrigerated and thus the danger of salmonella is real. Meat is also kept in the open, and in the markets it may contain trichina. Moreover, the general sanitary conditions are poor, thus the only safe way of enjoying such an adventure is by drinking an unaccompanied hot drink, which is prepared with boiling water in front of the customers’ eyes.

The variety of herbal teas is what impressed me first. Those include chamomile, a local type of mint, coca, anis and others fresh leaves. They are prepared by putting a generous amount of leaves in a cup, pouring boiling water over them and then covering the metallic cup with a saucer for a few minutes. This is the moment to mention that coca leaves infusions are inactive and completely safe. A common choice is called "trimate" ("three tea-infusions") and is prepared with anis, chamomile and coca.

Black tea and coffee are prepared out of concentrates. This type of coffee is called here "destilado." Despite being a handy option, it means the final result is not very fresh; extraordinary amounts of sugar mask the taste of the drink.

Taking proper care, the most remote and exotic markets can provide exciting views into the exotic cultures and remote times.

From journal High Coffee

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