New York, New York
November 7, 2004
We decided to give Callaloo a try. This is where the island’s reputation as "the friendly island" started to become a point of humor for us. The restaurant is easy to find, since Hillsborough is little more than a main street and a few side streets. It’s on the top floor of a quaint, whitewashed house, and the spare dining room is about as large as a New York City apartment. The table we had read about was tucked into an alcove in the front of the restaurant, next to a large window that offered unobstructed views of the harbor. We were the only ones there when we arrived, but the hostess/waitress/co-owner still seemed irritated when we asked for the front table. Only a few minutes after seating us, she hustled us to another table when a second party arrived and requested the front table. She even instructed me to sit in my chair more carefully, as the chairs were old and "might break." So much for the Friendly Island!
So the service was less than pleasant, but the food was another story. The waitress returned to our table a few moments after re-seating us and posed a simple question: "Chicken or fish?" I chose fish, which came with either a salad or a bowl of callaloo soup, plus rice and veggies. The soup arrived first. Though probably not a good choice for those squeamish about green vegetables–-it was a deep green color-–it was so fresh, earthy, and delicious. The fish was dolphinfish, or Mahi Mahi (not dolphin). It was incredibly fresh and flavorful, with hardly any seasoning. I have had Mahi Mahi many times since returning from Carriacou, but nothing has ever come close. For those of you more apt to choose chicken, it comes roasted simply and is also very good. Dessert was an assortment of interesting (and delicious) ice cream flavors–-nutmeg, cinnamon, clove–-in the tradition of the Spice Island (as Grenada is known).
We did return a few times, despite the surly service, and we even got to sit at The Table once, but it was the food that made the outings worthwhile. If you’re looking to sample the local cuisine, Callaloo is tops in Carriacou. Just don’t expect a warm welcome.
From journal Tales from the Less-Traveled Grenadines