Editor Pick
Jean-Louis Restaurant Summer 2008
- July 26, 2007
- Rated 5 of 5 by
Wasatch from heber ctity, Utah
Ahi Tuna ($28), a summer menu staple, with a sesame oil based ginger sauce was impressive. Jean-Louis’ onion rings are sliced impossibly thin, lightly breaded, and a treat. The Tuna was so good, she cleaned up her plate. That rarely happens, especially with large servings such as those at Jean-Louis. I usually get some of her meal, but not here. I got only a taste of the Tuna. Take this as the highest possible recommendation.
Boneless Buffalo Rib steak with sauce Bearnaise ($38), the daily special, was more than worth every cent. The Buffalo was cooked a bit on the rare side of the ordered medium rare, but no big deal. Buffalo is a very low fat meat, prone to quickly toughening if overcooked. Stick with rare or medium rare. The lack of internal fat also means Buffalo, even properly cooked, tends toward dryness. Buffalo needs lots of sauce. Consequently, there was a generous serving of an excellent Bearnaise Sauce covering the large piece of Buffalo– terrific. Sides were onion rings and sweet potato french fries, something I’d never had before. Sweet potato fries, at least like Jean-Louis makes them, should be a staple on every menu. Dusted with a flavored powder and deep fried, crisp on the outside and meltingly soft in the interior, making a great combination of flavors and textures. Entrées come with a choice two sides. Make the sweet potato fries one of yours.
The only negative, and it was not serious, was the excessive application of pepper in the kitchen. The Sauce Bearnaise was decidedly spicy. The pepper on the onion rings and fries was barely noticeable alone, but when the three peppered foods were consumed together, there was a build up of fiery tongue and lips.
Service was swift and efficient, but a little less attentive than on our previous visits because the wait staff seemed a little overloaded by the number of diners present at 5:30 on a Monday. As usual, Chef Jean-Louis Montecott occasionally roamed the dining room, keeping a practiced eye on things and chatting with the customers.
On another visit, we both had the daily special, "White Tuna" on a bed of roasted summer vegetables fixed in the Italian style. Everything was perfectly cooked, the fish was as fresh as fist can be 700 miles inland, and the roast vegetables marvelously flavored. This was a terrific, but high risk meal. "White Tuna" is not tuna but some obscure fish nobody ever heard of because it is rarely eaten because of its very unpleasant side effects for some people. It can trigger the same symptoms as Olestra– stomach upset and intestinal disturbances (Including the infamous "anal leakage"). I got it, she didn’t. So, while I’d never order it again, it was a treat for the first two hours.
Outside tables are available in summer, overlooking a parking lot and the entrance portal to Deer Valley.
Bottom line: still the best in Park City.
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