We found ourselves in the freezing cold around lunchtime in the Castle Square (Schlossplatz) spoiled for choice as far as gastronomical options are concerned. We had traditional German food on our minds and traditional German food was on offer at all three guest houses congregating at the northern end of the square.

At first glance, Alte Zollwache looked the most appealing – it seemed lively with large hand written signs advertising the specials of the day. However, it was hosting a private function. Zum Schwan, housed in a beautiful old dark green building, had an appealing menu but the place looked a bit dead. So we headed for Zum Bären (At the Bears), which had a thoroughly German menu.

Zum Bären has been in business at least since 1799. The gastronomical tradition on these premises may date back even a century more but the details are too murky to make a credible claim. The establishment has two main rooms on the ground floor. The first, smaller one has six tables with four seats each and a small bar area. Most people sat in this cozy room so we picked a table here as well. The second room is lighter and more spacious with larger tables. During summer months, outdoor seating and a beer garden are available.

The permanent lunchtime menu consists of traditional Hessen cuisine as well as more international dishes. The most expensive item on the menu is fillet steak at €17.50. The international dishes, mostly schnitzels in various interpretations, are around €10 and the German ones €8. Special lunch offers vary by the day, as do special dinner menus. On Friday nights wild boar is on the menu and on Wednesday elk. In my opinion, the German dishes and special menus offer the best Preis-Leistungverhältnis (price to performance equation) and it would, in any case, be a crying shame to go international in such a traditional location.

Seasonal specialties are also on offer – a culinary calendar is available on the website. During our visit the specials were Eintöpfe – that is literally One Pot Dishes, usually hearty soups, which can border on a stew. I had an Eintöpf of vegetable and unspecified poultry (I think it was goose), which was both tasty and filling. My wife had Bratwurst mit Sauerkraut, which was also a cut above the normal. We washed it down with hot apple wine – an acquired taste – and topped it off with cappuccino and the special desert of the day – a cinnamon star ice cream with berry sauce. The total bill came to a very reasonable €22. Service was prompt and friendly without being overbearing.

Restaurant Zum Bären is located at the Höchster Schlossplatz 8, facing the main entrance to the Höchst Castle. Two bears standing above the front entrance bear testimony to the German meaning of the restaurant’s name.

Restaurant Zum Bären
Höchster Schlossplatz 8
65929 Frankfurt-Höchst
Tel: 069/309343
www.zumbaeren.net