Description: The more things change, the more they stay the same – thankfully, in the case of Edwardo’s. Back in the 80’s when we lived nearby, the original southside pizzeria had a loyal (and hungry) following among the University of Chicago students. The unpretentious eatery on 57th Street served arguably Chicago’s best stuffed pizza, and was famed for its stuffed spinach pizza in particular.
Now, some twenty years later, the original Edwardo’s has grown to a chain of nine pizzerias, mostly in the Chicago area but beginning to branch out into Wisconsin and Indiana as well. United Airlines serves their "personal pizzas" in its first-class Midwestern flights. And it’s no longer just "Edwardo’s." Now it’s "Edwardo’s Natural Pizza."
But don’t let that fool you. This is still Edwardo’s. We dropped by the original Hyde Park location for old time’s sake. Well, I should clarify that. My husband, a stuffed pizza fanatic,
demanded that we eat here. Twenty years spent away from Hyde Park, and he was still dreaming of Edwardo’s pizza. It’s that good.
Now, I should probably confess upfront that I am not a big stuffed pizza fan. I will eat one piece, enjoy it, and, well, that’s enough for me. I’m full. I’m a thin crust fan (and I should mention that Edwardo’s does those, too, only we always order the stuffed crust spinach pizza. Always. Jack insists). And so on our "reunion" with Edwardo’s we ordered… well, you know.
So what’s the Edwardo’s experience like? Well, the restaurant itself is disarmingly unpretentious, like a lot of great Chicago eateries. Interior decorator? We don’t need no stinking interior decorator. This is Chicago. Love it or leave it.
And don’t be in any big hurry. You want fast pizza? Go get you one of those microwavable cardboard things. You deserve it. You want stuffed pizza, you’ve gotta wait for them to do it right.
That’s okay. Have a beer. Crack open whatever book you’re carrying. (That’s a given in Hyde Park.)
What, you’re not carrying a book? What’s wrong wid' you? Okay, then pick up a copy of the
Reader from the stack near the door.
Some forty minutes later, your inches-high pizza arrives (with a thud). This is not light fare. This stuff will get you through a long, cold winter’s night. The beauty of Edwardo’s pizza is the ingredients are truly fresh, and the balance of cheese, spinach, sauce, spices, and crust is utter perfection. Any leftovers (a dubious prospect) are good for breakfast the next day.
What, you don’t eat pizza for breakfast?
What's wrong wid' you?
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