The Taverna San Trovaso does fast food - and they mean fast. I entered, was seated, served a fresh piping hot pizza, and was moved out again within thirty minutes. A mere hop, skip and a jump from the Accademia this is an ideal place for a quick lunch to recharge you before another afternoon of frantic sightseeing.
The service was a tad brusque, but the place was full, even at the tail end of November. While it looks like a hidden rustic nook from the exterior it is definitely on the tourist trail - Yorkshire and Estuary accents predominated. Maybe not surprisingly - I headed here after noticing it in my Rough Guide, one of the nearest marked restaurants to the Accademia.
The food is nothing fancy, but it's good, unfussy, and comes to your table quickly. I plumped for the Pizza San Trovaso, a crispy base topped with mozzarella, prosciutto, wurst, mushrooms, avocado and olives. It was €8.50 - and this was one of the most expensive pizzas on the menu! Refreshed, I set out again.
The trattoria is closed on Mondays, and is in a very scenic area of Dorsuduro. Continue down the Fondamente Nani while you are in the area to spot one of Venice's two remaining 'squero', or gondolier workshops, an incongruous courtyard looking like an Alpine barnyard. Great photos can be had here.