At night the old town truly comes alive, and we ran from bar to bar feasting our eyes and stomachs on a wide array of tapas and Riojas. Cured meats hung above our heads as we sat and snacked on empanadas, pickled herring, spicy prawn rolls and sweet flan. One great spot is a small bar on the corner of Plaza de la Trinidad called Clery, where we received very generous pourings of Rioja and Crianza.
Most bars in the area have a very busy but intimate feel, which makes it fun to explore a few places in one evening. Nonsmokers be warned: All the bars we went to are very smoky and few, if any, have nonsmoking areas.