Badly needing refreshment after completing my allotted tasks, I climbed the stone steps to the entrance of the Agapitos, which was quite full considering it was not even midday. Everyone other than I appeared to be locals, but this was much more of an incentive than deterrent, so I took a table, relaxed, and tried to listen in on the various conversations going on all around me, without much success.

I ordered a large beer, which, at 2€, was very good value. It appeared in a frozen glass, which kept the beer chilled down to the last mouthful. It was too hot to eat too much, so I ordered the ubiquitous gyros and was served with the largest portion I’d ever encountered wrapped in pita bread, with a huge side salad on the plate of tomatoes, cucumber, feta, olives, and peppers, and sprinkled with oregano, plus two massive chunks of very fresh bread, something the village prides itself on.

The other patrons were all engaged in playing backgammon and other than a couple of polite, enquiring glances towards me, they kept themselves to themselves, sipping their ouzos and raki.

I struggled to finish the food that had been put in front of me, but didn’t want to leave anything on my plate, so I persevered and eventually wiped the plate clean with the last piece of bread.

This sumptuous feast, which, with the beer, cost me 6€, was a true bargain considering the size of the portions and the quality and freshness of the food. I left a handsome tip, bid kalispera to the waiter, and ambled back to the waiting car for the ride back to Pefkos.