Crépes Suzette
Crépes Suzette isn’t a particularly creative name, but there is nothing run-of-the mill about this cozy, smoky creperie on rue des Francs Bourgeois, which we visited on a miserable, rainy afternoon. Inside, a primarily local clientele was lingering in snug nooks over oversized mugs of tea (outrageously priced at 4 euros, I’ll have you know!) We soon felt like part of the family, or at least the family sitting next to us, due to the small room, tight quarters, and 4 year old boy who insisted on visiting with us.

Select from their recommended combinations or design your own crepe: I chose a combination of raclette, potatoes, and creme fraiche drizzled with pesto, which was so delicious, I would happily eat one every day for the rest of my life!

Les Philosophes
28 rue Vielle du Temple
48.87.49.64

See and be seen for dinner or a post-prandial coffee or cocktail (until 2am) on the corner of busy rue Vielle du Temple. The location and hours draw a mixed crowd of tourists and Parisians. Indoors is crowded and busy, while outdoors, all chairs are turned toward the street for optimal people watching. Heaters keep diners warm on chilly nights.

The simple bistro fare begins with excellent bread served with a tiny porcelain bowl of eye-wateringly spicy Dijon mustard. Salade Mixte was surprisingly robust and filling, and the assiette de fromages easily fed three hungry Americans. We also sampled a tarte tatin aux tomates. Barbara and I thought it was a clever idea and quite tasty, but Jeanne described it as "congealed tomato sauce".

Piccolo Teatro
6, rue des Ecouffes
42.72.19.79

When I first ate here in 1988, the Marais was more of a slum than a hotspot, but now the neighborhood has caught up with hauntingly romantic Piccolo Teatro. On this trip, Jen and I huddled under our umbrella outside in the rain, gazing enviously at the warm, welcoming interior that was, unfortunately for us, full. This is easily the most creative vegetarian restaurant in Paris and well worth a visit.

Chez Marianne
2 rue des Hospitaliéres-St. Gervais
42.72.18.86

Chez Marianne is the undisputed queen of the many Middle Eastern restaurants dotting the streets of the Marais. The owners make no secret of their political leanings, which are painted on just about every window. Day or night, people buzz like bees around their takeout window, foil-wrapped falafel sandwiches in hand. Without a reservation, you’ll likely wait 10mn or so for dinner. We were offered a free glass of rose to drink while we waited. Dinner was a smorgasbord of Lebanese treats, including delicious, tiny felafel balls, although we found it a bit tacky to charge for side orders of pita bread. I mean, who eats hummus with their fingers?!

(Métro stop is St. Paul for all but Les Philosophes, which is near Hotel de Ville)