Last time we were there (February 2004), a life-sized smiling gray plaster donkey on wheels stood in front of the double glass doors. He blended in well with the unlikely gotta see-it-to-believe it architectural style of this building. Before going inside, walk the circumference of Los Olivos. Above the wooden back door looms a giant Cuauhtemoc head in Aztec headdress, further decorated by Christmas lights. On either side of the door, the faces of suns in stained-glass windows look out at you. Blooming bougainvillea cover entire portions of this building, adding to its organic feel.

Indoors is no less full of the unusual. Past carved wooden benches and colored glass skylights, there are several dining rooms. Last time, we ate in the one with the stage, with a retractable roof that can let in the starry sky when the weather is good, which is almost all the time in the Valley of the Sun. Completely dominating the stage is another big-headed figure, stern visage, small body, arms folded, and with what could possibly be large wings spread out on either side of him. He’s a very regal figure, and I wish I would have asked about his significance.

Tomás and Cecilia Corral arrived in Scottsdale from Mexico in 1919. They did not want their children to grow up to work in the mines of Mexico, so they took a chance on the land of opportunity. Tomás opened an adobe brickyard and built the adobe building that would serve as bakery, tavern, pool hall, chapel, and eventually, small restaurant over the years. During the Depression, Cecilia sold tamales door to door. At some point in time, Los Olivos Restaurant was named for the olive trees that used to grow on Second Street. And Corral family and kin helped the building to evolve and grow to its present state of grace.

Bob always zeros in on the Beefeater Favorites section of the menu, featuring steaks and carne asada. Notable is the steak picado ($10.50), lightly sautéed in a vegetable sauce. I favor the chicken and seafood section. The camarones (shrimp) a la veracruzana ($13.50) with an accompanying guacamole salad is delicious. For something lighter, try the whitefish or chicken tacos ($9-$11), full of nutrition with cabbage, beans, and rice.

Los Olivos’ menu is rounded out with appetizers, salads, soups, sides, specialties, and combinaciones. There’s also a children’s menu with selections under $4 and even American burgers, sandwiches, and fries. Los Olivos Norte, a second Corral family restaurant, is located at 15544 North Pima Road in Scottsdale. The Corrals say: Esta es su casa y vuelvan pronto.