by Kamla Srinivasan
Mt View, California
June 11, 2005
Kulfi is a concoction of milk, cream, sugar, nuts, and saffron that is thickened, then chilled, and served either by itself or in a sauce of thickened milk and falooda. (Note: the Indian version of falooda is very different from the Persian dish.)
Besides kulfi, this place also serves vegetarian snacks and juices, but people flock to this place primarily for its kulfi falooda.
If you are anywhere near the vicinity of Crawford Market, then Badshah Kulfi is a must-stop place for its kulfi falooda. Word of caution: I have had an upset tummy a couple of times when I had the kulfi here. The reason for this is that I ordered a dish that had ice cubes floating in it, and I suspect that is what caused problems for me.
This place is a welcome haven on hot, muggy Bombay summer days, especially after you finish your shopping in the nearby Mangaldas Market, Lohar Chawla, or Crawford Market.
This eating joint, which looks its age, is an open, airy room, where your orders are taken as soon as you sit down and served even before you have placed your shopping bags on the floor.
As a first-time visitor, I dutifully ordered Badshah Kulfi, (about $1) on the recommendation of friends and friendly shopkeepers in Lohar Chawla. This generous portion of Indian ice cream was a rich concoction spiked with all kinds of nuts and flavored with saffron. I have tried other kulfi, like malai (rich cream) and kesar pasta (saffron and almond), but I think Badshah Kulfi is the one that I like the best. If you have a sensitive stomach, avoid ordering any of the milk-based dishes, since they come with ice cubes than can be the undoing of your stomach.
From journal Mumbai aka Bombay