When choosing the best Chicago style hotdogs it's important to know that they bear certain universal traits:
- Vienna Beef hotdogs pop when you bite through the skin and bear no resemblance to boiled ball park franks
- Buns are steamed, with poppy seeds. They are substantial enough to hold what's coming
- That is, "dragged through the garden", with chemically altered emerald green relish, chopped onions, tomato wedges, kosher pickle spear, banana peppers and a sprinkling of celery salt
- Mustard but NO KETCHUP (although ketchup is allowed for children under six)
- Greasy, finger sized fries must accompany the dog. Grease must be properly seasoned with occasional onion ring dips and a long "cure" time in the vats.
Likewise, Chicago style hotdog lovers also bear universal similarities. Among them:
- They prefer old standby's over new establishments because their grease is better "cured" and …
- The attitude is authentically Chicago hotdog appropriate; that is, they are happy to have your business but annoyed with you at the same time
- Going to the same place week after week makes you a "regular" so you don't have to shout from the back of the line to get the "grilled onions," you just gesture a secret nod to the cashier
- Even though you are at the end of a long line in a hot, steamy hotdog stand, your order is "outta there" ahead of novices still "deciding"
- You know cheese fries from "cheese fries"
- You can spot an unkosher dill from thirty paces
- Once in a while you have the jumbo grilled dog just to mix it up a little
So where do you go to become an aficionado of Chicago's most famous culinary invention? In my humble, considered and unprejudiced opinion, there are two main places: Stash's in Highland Park, Little Louis' in Northbrook.
Stash's was considerably more authentic before it was razed and replaced by a modern version in Port Clinton Square, complete with the sad sign of the times…the salad bar. It also now sports some bright colors and those oversized comic book cartoons on the walls. But nevertheless, my devotion spans back to the days when Stash would bark loudly over the sizzling grills to coax me to order as if the world depended on delivering that dog within thirty seconds. In the tightest quarters behind the counter, happy and joking cool guys were always "on" making the experience the highlight of my day.
Little Louis is very similar even now. Though nothing more than a tiny storefront with window counter and stools near the park and train station, dozens of people line up daily for the familiar comforts that will soothe away their stress. Louis himself is like that grouchy, hardworking grandpa who you are sure would die for you even as he scowls while you search for exact change.
In Chicago, life's a beach if you stop for a dog.