EAT HERE instead of the Government Rest House seemingly attached to Jerash, or so it appears as guides automatically usher unknowing tourists to that benign and overpriced lunch spot. Be firm in your request to eat at Al-Khayyam, even if it means upsetting your guide (who'll likely miss out on a freebie lunch). Our guide pouted the entire time which was a big drag. We tried our best to better his mood by offering to pay for his lunch, but he refused to order anything. Instead, he sat at the head of our table and smoked cigarettes nonstop while we ate.

The restaurant has a nice views-- a large picture window covers one wall, while the other walls are open. Only a few local men sat at the little tables dressed in checkered red and white tablecloths. Nobody spoke English here and there were no menus. A waiter promptly came over to us and offered us a choice of kabobs: beef, chicken or mixed.

Within minutes, the waiter returned with cold Cokes and an assortment of mezzah (salads) which included tahini, humus, eggplant dip, spiced vegetables, and meat dips. These six salads were served in little communal bowls, meant to be shared with people at your table. There was more then plenty to eat, certainly enough for sharing with our guide. We insisted that he join us and eat our salads, but he stubbornly refused and continued smoking and pouting. It was awfully awkward eating in front of him, enjoying the food so immensely, while he sat there inches away refusing not only to eat but to join in any conversation.

The meat kabobs were served on freshly baked pita bread, still warm and soft. Colorful purple sumac spiced onions, parsley and tomatoes were sprinkled on the tender pieces of meat. It was so delicious! My husband still claims that this lunch was his favorite meal during the month long honeymoon to Egypt and Jordan. My favorite was Ajlun, but this was clearly my second choice. Tender, succulent meat, interesting mezzahs, and the best bargain around. Our meal of meat kabobs plus six side dishes only cost JD3!