Yesterday, in Rouen, I had perhaps the best single dish of my life. After a long walk in the cold drizzle through this pretty city, I found La Marmite, a place about as big as a bedroom with pink tablecloths. They served me a warm foie gras with slices of preserved duck on pain d'epices with a glaze of cider jelly and grains of big salt. It was truly amazing! I had a five-course meal for 40€. I also bought a bottle of the wine they served with it, a Jurançon, and some great cheese that had been cured in Marc - oh man!