Any of you who have ever driven through the small towns of central California probably know what a taco wagon is. For those of you who don't, a taco wagon is a small kitchen-equipped van like the one you buy your corn dogs from at the county fair. They are mobile, family-owned diners on wheels that serve very simple, authentic Mexican food, usually very inexpensively.
Today, taco wagons are as prolific in California as McDonald's; it seems like there is one parked every 2 blocks. Twenty years ago, though, there was one lone taco wago in Chico. They didn't advertise--all business was word-of-mouth--and if you didn't know how to find it, you would probably miss it. The wait for lunch could be as long as 2 hours, but broke students planned accordingly and timed their orders so that they could bike over and pick up their burritos between classes. As business grew, the family was able to buy the little plot of land they parked their truck on. Eventually, they started construction on a small building behind their parking spot. Regular patrons watched for years as the restaurant slowly grew from a foundation to a full-fledged eatery. Today, Tacos Cortez is an institution.
The menu is simple: tacos, burritos, beans, rice, and a few other Mexican staples. A hungry diner can stuff his face and wash it down with a cold soda for well under $7. Starving students know that the super burrito, the best meal deal in town, can easily be stretched into lunch AND dinner. You will be relieved to know that the wait is no longer 1 or 2 hours to get your food but generally 15 to 30 minutes. A few nice picnic areas have been added to the property and make a great place to dine in the summer.
Tacos Cortez is a bit off the beaten path but not difficult to find. From the Highway 99 freeway, take the Highway 32 exit to the west. Follow this one-way street about 2 1/2 miles, until it ends in a T intersection at Walnut Ave. Turn left onto Walnut and go straight through the next intersection over the little bridge. Tacos Cortez is located at the corner of Dayton and Walnut on the left, just past the bridge.