Fatafeet, which means "crumbs" in Arabic, is probably the most attractive creek-side restaurant in Dubai. The location couldn't be better: Situated on the Bur Dubai side of the creek more or less opposite the space-age Etisalat Building (UAE's telecom headquarters), you can watch abras and dhows cruising up and down the waterway amid the shimmering reflections of the lights from the buildings as well--quite stunning. The food is very good for what it is: the menu consists mainly of typically Arab kebabs, dips, and mezzes or appetizers. Homous here is absolutely wonderful, with just the right amount of garlic and lime juice but no overwhelming taste of tahina. The kibbee and felafel are crusty but not hard. As for the meat, it's all excellent. Chicken of any sort here is highly recommended.
If you're into water pipes, this is the place to come. The shisha menu is seemingly endless with a zillion different flavors, and you see local people, both male and female, puffing happily away through the evening. It's definitely a place to see and be seen without the exorbitant price tag that a similarly popular watering hole would exact in Europe or the US.
To get there, just hop into a taxi and tell them the name. Everybody knows it, so you'll have no trouble. Otherwise, plan to stop here at the end of an evening stroll along the creek, which is one of Dubai's principal pleasures anyway.
You won't find this open during the day. Wait until dusk, and then it'll stay open until after midnight.