Advertised as a French-American bistro, the menu at Bistro 412 takes good advantage of its French heritage. Easily the most interesting menu in Park City, Bistro 412 offers a nice range of choices. Trout encrusted in almonds was super. Nicely cooked fresh fish–neither is easy to get in Utah–was buried under a fine toasted crust of almonds and accompanied by a large serving of carrot mashed potatoes, with the carrots giving the potatoes a nice yellow color and just hint of carrot flavor. The second side was julienne veggies, mostly carrots and zucchini, which was properly cooked, an unusual finding in a Park City restaurant where the local culture regularly produces undercooked vegetables. The vegetable julienne was also only disappointment of the evening–-the kitchen had applied far too much pepper. For shame. The pepper shaker is on the table for pepper freaks, but there is no way to un-pepper an overly spiced dish once its damaged in the kitchen. If you have never had roast duck in Huckleberry Sauce, you will love this dish. However, it’s better at the Pollo Grill, Whitefish, MT. Huckleberries are something like a wild super-flavored blueberry from the high mountains. Difficult to cultivate, huckleberries are mostly harvested by hand from wild bushes in remote mountain areas, where they are favorite treat of grizzly bears. The Pollo Grill takes classic Canard a l’orange and, substituting huckleberries for oranges, surpasses the French original. Bistro 412's version was more like Canard au porto with huckleberries added. It is a fine dish, but I prefer ed the Pollo Grill’s. The duck was cooked as ordered and with an excellent crispy skin. It was accompanied by the carrot-zucchini side discussed and nicely done Pommes de terre a la creme. Both meals were attractively served on large oval plates.
I didn’t much care for the decor of Bistro 412, yellow walls trimmed in red odd little lights hanging down from wires stretched across the room below the high ceiling and faded photos of French street scenes on the wall. We have traveled excessively in France, and Bistro 412 reminds me of no restaurant I have ever seen in France. It reminds me of what a crazed California yuppie interior decorator might imagine a French bistro would look like, but that’s far from the real thing. Chairs were a bit uncomfortable, but the booths are worse. White tablecloths were covered with plain paper--saves on the laundry bill, but looks a little tacky--and the table was set with one burgundy glass and one claret glass, perhaps another touch of the misguided decorator. Service was typical Park City professionalism and very prompt, but the place was mostly empty, as it was low, low season.
Based on one visit, Bistro 412 shows promise of being one of Park City’s best. We will be going back in a week or so, the next time we feel like dinner out.