If you're craving Irish food and atmosphere while in Chicago, there's a new establishment in the River North area called The Kerryman, located at 661 North Clark St., that delivers.

Owned by the O'Donoghues, who are already well-known in the British Isles for their hotels and restaurants, and designed by an Irish architectural firm, the exterior of the building has been redesigned to look like typical Dublin architecture, with Georgian elements and a cheerful yellow paint that reminds me of many an Irish village. During the warmer months, the Kerryman has lots of comfortable outside seating, surrounded by lush plants, fairy lights, and torches, which makes the popular al fresco dining area seem cozier and more private. Inside, you enter via the bar area, which is dominated by a custom-made bar of warm mahogany. A plethora of Irish beers are on tap, including, of course, Guinness. Brown leather booths are plentiful throughout the establishment. The interior is airy, open to view the two floors of seating above. Walls are designed to look like the walls of stone cottages, and Irish bands are on the sound system. If you head upstairs from the bar, you'll find a mix of more booths and tables with a cozier, more intimate setting.

And the food? Fantastic. We started with the Foster's-beer-battered onion rings - a massive pile of light and flaky onion rings with a smooth and tasty horseradish dipping sauce. The cream-based seafood chowder is excellent, rich and flavorful without being heavy. My dining companion enjoyed a grilled yellow tuna sandwich topped with avocado and accompanied by fries and coleslaw. I had a hard time choosing among the many traditional Irish favorites on the menu, but finally choose the Shepard’s pie, an outstanding choice: buttery mashed potatoes were topped with a savory mix of gravy, vegetables, and ground beef, baked with Irish cheeses on top. Unfortunately, we were too full to indulge in dessert, but the home-style apple pie looked amazing. We agreed that one of the best things about the Kerryman's food was that although it was not heavy, it was filling and very satisfying.

Like a genuine Irish bar, there is relatively little adornment - no neon beer signs here - the strength of the establishment resting solidly on the quality of its food and the friendliness of its native Irish wait staff. The Kerryman is not in the heart of the more touristy areas of River North, and this is a saving grace, because although only a few months old, The Kerryman is already rather popular with locals who grab a post-work pint downstairs or a relaxing dinner on the upper floors.

Hours: Kitchen: Sunday-Thursday 11 am-10 pm; Friday and Saturday 11 am-11 pm
Bar: Sunday-Friday 11 am-2 am; Saturday 11 am-3 am

Parking: metered street parking; no valet
CTA: Chicago stop of either Red line (4 blocks) and Brown line (6 blocks)