Whenever I stay in Zurich, I make a beeline for Bierhalle Kropf for my first lunch, no matter what season. Sporting a menu of very traditional Zurich and Swiss German specialties, it is my favorite place for soaking up some old-time Zurich atmosphere along with great boiled beef -- sounds dull, but only sounds that way – it’s sublimely tender, flavorful, and comforting, and just the thing for the weary traveler. There’s also the Kropf sausage plate, served with the Swiss national potato dish, roesti – a half circle of buttery and perfectly golden shredded home fries, like no other potato dish that exists. But I’m getting ahead of myself.
Bierhalle Kropf is in the old town on the West bank of the Limmat, not far from the St. Peter church and the Fraumunster. In fact, it’s just steps from Paradeplatz, the traditional center of the city. The building, called Kropf, or "bulge," has existed since the middle of the 15th century, way before the restaurant came to be. The present restaurant dates from the last quarter of the 19th century and has gloriously painted walls and ceilings to prove it. Mostly tiny angels holding great steaming platters of food and overflowing beer steins, the ceilings and murals evoke a time when going out for a plate of boiled beef was a big occasion. I understand perfectly, since I am always happy when I’m in Zurich, staying at my favorite hotel, the Storchen, that’s just around the corner and eating lunch at Kropf. And the best thing is that you are midway between Sprungli truffles at Paradeplatz if you turn right out the door, or Teuscher truffles – turn left and keep going after the Italian restaurant and the jewelry store to the corner if you crave something sweet after lunch.
Restaurant Bierhalle Kropf
In Gassen 16
CH-8001 Zurich
Telephone from the US: 011 411 221 1805
Fax from the US: 011 411 212 3754
Closed Sundays and holidays.