Asparagus was in season, and there was no shortage of choices – soup, roasted in lard, stewed with pork, or served in crepes. The regular menu tempted with items like strudel filled with spinach and mushrooms in yogurt, filet of beef, goulash with hearty brown bread, and pepper steak with fried potatoes, to name just a few, but it was the outdoor grill at the back of the courtyard that really appealed to me. Lined up behind the glass counter were thick sausages, bratwurst, racks of spare ribs, pork hocks, chicken, and more, waiting to be cooked to order for hungry diners by a white clad chef. A large salad bar contained sauerkraut and all kinds of cooked and raw vegetables and salads on a self-serve basis. Prices for this bounty were determined by weight, although dinner rolls were charged individually (.60 per piece).

I had bratwurst, probably a foot long, crispy rosti potatoes, and a big helping of sauerkraut flavoured with bits of pork and caraway seeds. Bea ordered from the menu’s daily specials and had creamy asparagus soup served with light rye bread. She decided to treat herself and splurged on rhubarb strudel in a strawberry sauce topped with whipped cream and shaved almonds for dessert. Our drink of choice? New wine of course, very light and tart and served in a heavy glass mug. Although Bea’s dessert was good stuff, I was more interested in another mug of wine and the relaxation that comes with good food, good wine, and good company. My meal cost just over €10, including wine and tip, and Bea’s was about the same.

Getting to Grinzing on public transport is easy – ride the U2 metro line to Schottentor, and then get tram 38 or take bus 38A from Heiligenstadt (U4 metro). After dinner, ride the bus another five minutes uphill to the Kahlenberg viewpoint for panoramic views of Vienna. Whether in a car or on public transportation, an excursion to Grinzing and a stop in a heurigen is well worth it.