If you only have the opportunity to eat a single meal while in Slovenia, well, that’s a great pity… But if you find yourself in that predicament, I’d advise you to make your way to this cavernous establishment that’s the most faithful replica of a traditional Slovene gostilna (country inn) to be found in the country’s capital – certainly to judge by its popularity among locals. As it’s located across from the cathedral in the heart of Ljubljana’s fittingly petite Old Town, it’s also something of a fixture on the city’s tourist circuit, but at the moment, this is to its advantage, as it simply means that it offers English-language menus and service (and a free drink to holders of the Ljubljana Card.)
Sokol doesn’t just mean hawk in Slovene (hence the large metal bird by the entrance). It also refers to a society that advocated Slovene rights and culture under Hapsburg rule, whose members included the architect Jože Plečnik, Ljubljana’s most famous son. While the setting can’t compare with Plečnik’s masterpieces, the inn-like downstairs dining room covered in paintings depicting characters from Slovene folklore is quite atmospheric nonetheless. The cramped upstairs balcony is a little too authentic for some guests (myself among them!)
Once ensconced in either locale, I’d recommend asking your server’s advice regarding what to order unless something particularly strikes your fancy. I found the wait staff consistently helpful and friendly. Among other things, they’re particularly helpful in suggesting the side dishes to order with some of the more unusual Slovene main courses, as well as cautioning you as to which ones are most filling, which is not readily obvious from the menu descriptions. In any case, they’ll invariably recommend you leave room for the gibanica, the multi-flavored sweet pie from Prekmurje (northern Slovenia) that is the closest thing the country has to a national dish, a suggestion I’d certainly repeat to you.
My personal favorite dish is the grilled squid stuffed with karstic ham and cheese (from Slovenia’s tiny Istrian coast), although on both visits when I tried their excellent stews, I left barely able to eat much more (fortunately, having been warned this would be the case!). I’d caution you against trying the venison with berries, as when I sampled it, the tasty sweet sauce couldn’t quite hide the fact that the meat itself was rather dry and overcooked. While the various meat platters tend to be relatively expensive, by Slovene standards, and bereft of significant vegetable garnishes, several avid carnivores with whom I spoke expressed their great delight with them, so I feel confident seconding their recommendation.
Sokol is neither the best value restaurant in central Ljubljana (which boasts a surprisingly interesting dining scene for such a small city) nor the most renowned, but it’s unbeatable for an introduction to Slovene food, and for this reason, I’d heartily recommend it (provided you have an equally hearty appetite, of course!)
http://www.gostilna-sokol.com (Slovene only)