Although I found it (with some difficulty) tucked in a nondescript building just beyond Klaipeda's old town, Kurpiai is rather more exciting within. Somehow, the high-ceilinged dark country tavern meets coffeehouse music venue, with a few mirrors thrown in for good measure (or at least to make it look larger), is actually quite charming. As was my server, who immediately lit me a candle stuck in a wine bottle and left me to puzzle my way through the rather extensive trilingual menu.
Just back from the bus station, where I’d returned after visiting the Hill of the Crosses and bought my ticket to Riga, I looked forward to spending my last litas honoring this wonderful country’s cuisine. My first choice was kepta duona, a traditional and delicious snack made of crunchy fried bread rubbed in garlic, and in this case, covered in local cheese. This went well with my glass of midus (a stronger and more flavorful variant on mead), and I ordered zirniai su spirgais(split peas with pork), another favorite Lithuanian companion to imbibing.
I noticed that the restaurant, and even more so the bar, had begun to fill up, and I recalled the Lonely Planet guide’s description of the place as the best bar in Lithuania and a "heaving music venue." With some difficulty, I managed to order a local fish filet, which was pleasantly tender and accompanied by an obscenely large side dish of potatoes. By the time I had finished, pleasantly sated for the long bus ride the next day, the guidebook’s description had been borne out in full, with a local band playing to an enthusiastic audience. Consequently, I’d advise you to seek out this restaurant should you visit Klaipeda, but to do so well before 8pm in order to get a seat. If you arrive anytime close to 9pm, when the music begins, you’ll be turned away!
I didn't take any pictures inside so I hope you'll enjoy these that I took earlier in the day at the Hill of the Crosses