Bad coffee and cigarettes never tasted so good together. I don’t even drink coffee, or regularly smoke. Really, at between 60 and 70 kroners for a pack of Camel Blues, I don’t see how anyone in Oslo can regularly smoke—but you know how those Europeans do it! But my general dislike for these two black vices was temporarily lifted when I stepped into Kafe Blitz, a dingy little joint in central Oslo that revels in its counter-cultural attitude like Paris Hilton in front of a camera.
According to the Kafe Blitz website, this establishment has been going against the grain since the early 80s, which isn’t surprising given what looks to be a meeting point for liberal locals to discuss politics and underground music, as well as perform it. A small stage is set up in the main seating area, where poetry readings, musical performances, and raves take place. There isn’t much in the way of décor here—a colorful mural that’s so Norway, a bulletin board pasted with flyers, and some basic tables and chairs—but it doesn’t matter. The crowd that ranged in age from 16 or 17 to mid-50s, with looks from hippie to black metal, didn’t seem to care what was on the walls. How could you see through all the smoke anyway?
My coffee was at least cheap at NOK 5, but honestly it was made of some magical liquid that deteriorated further in taste with each sip. A variety of vegan and vegetarian food is served at reasonable prices, which is somewhat of a double whammy for Oslo. The "sandwich" on display in the see-thru window, though, didn’t look especially appetizing—one slice of bread smeared with hummus, a tomato, and sprouts—but I didn’t try it so I can’t down it. Other people seemed to enjoy it, while others were munching on waffles folded over one of a few jams to choose from.
Even on the dreariest of days in Oslo, when the city seems grayer than John Ashcroft’s policy outlines, you shouldn’t have any trouble spotting Kafe Blitz. The exterior is adorned with an array of graffiti and urban murals, including a rendering of Edvard Munch’s "The Scream". You can also keep your eyes peeled for a row of skulls—real human skulls from customers who walked in passing out "Support Conservative Politics" pamplets! Just kidding.