Fifteen years later, the Uptown is still going strong, having some of the best, most sophisticated food in Norfolk. (Understand something, you out-of-towners: crab cakes are considered to be exotic cuisine around here in the land of steak and potatoes, so don't be shocked if you find things you'd consider standard to be on the menu under the chef's specialties.)

The interior looks like a French cafe -- or at least what you'd imagine one to look like if you've never been to Paris. Shining black laquer tables and wainscotting, warm coral-beige walls, and works by local artists grace the walls. A slow rattan fan swirls lazily above your head. Burgundy cloth napkins and heavy bistro silverware sit next to the wine list on your plate. It's a very heady experience, and those that can suspend disbelief long enough to ignore the men in overalls at the next tablediscussing hog reports can easily wish themselves into a bustling French street, without the rude waiters.

I grew up thinking The Uptown was the most expensive restaurant on earth. So when I treated my mother the last time I was back, I took along $80, thinking we'd need that much for dinner and desserts. Color me surprised when both of us ate -- and ate -well- -- on $25. Including drinks, dessert, and tips. I've been jaded by the big cities, I think.

Dinners range from Omaha steaks to seafood, all at a very good, Midwest price. It's a must-see.