The gray muddy skies of October twilight hugged the hills above the quiet Restaurant Commanderie as we wearily searched for food, any kind of food. Warm light from a wall of windows spilled on to the empty winter terrace and invited us inside. Tucked in a corner .5km from The New Hotel de Lives, this family Italian bistro is inviting, accommodating and bursting with wonderful pasta, salads, pizzas, and antipasto (8-15 euros).

Immediately inside the swinging glass doors a massive sunroom spanned the entire restaurant. Laid with green indoor/outdoor carpet and sprinkled with cozy tables adorned with the last of the fall flowers, the interior was as welcoming as the warm smells. The Commander, as we called him, breezed forward and briskly led us to a small round table with a scant view of the River Muse. A small well stocked bar rested in a far corner next to a huge wine rack where the commander’s petite wife with a child on her hip managed the bar.

An advantage of dining at 6pm, early by Belgium standards, is there is no waiting. Our dinner arrived promptly and steaming, at least Robert’s did. I had ordered a salade Nicoise and what a salad! Enormous china plates arrived overflowing with our entrees. On a bed of crisp endive and spinach rested a palette of tuna, green beans, anchovies, julienne beets and carrots, boiled eggs, shredded cheese, and tomatoes doused in a light vinaigrette. I could hardly munch my way though. Meanwhile Robert twirled his pasta and shucked his langostinos, scallops, and shrimp in a spirited red sauce. He hummed little mmms of pleasure and I accompanied him. We finished with a little red wine and had no room for dessert.

The price was as surprising as the servings were generous. Spaghetti fruit de mer (fruits from the sea = seafood) cost 9.20 euros, as did my salad. Water was 2.80 euros and a draft beer was 1.50 euros. The Commander takes all credit and debit cards and even had a take out pizza window hidden past the bar. Out doors, the parking lot was small and busy as a self-service petrol station sat next door. Inside to the right down a hall was a game room for the children or the children in all of us.