I visited Dubrovnik’s Old Town for the first time on a stormy evening in early March, although it was beautiful even then. Unfortunately, the ominousness of these skies was reflected in the dearth of affordable restaurants open in Dubrovnik’s Old Town – not only were the pair recommended in my guidebook both closed, so too were the ones that the tourist office (which was open) suggested to me! As I worked my way back to Stradun I stopped beneath a scaffolding to catch my breath (and avoid the rain) and saw a lighted sign offering "25Kn Specials" in a nearby window. I opened what turned out to be the back door of this cosy (but completely empty) restaurant.

Reading the menu by candlelight, I learned that the 25Kn specials were only served at lunchtime, but staving off my hunger for the moment with a cup of herbal tea, learned that the dinner offerings didn’t cost much more. The first food to make its way to me was bread and sir s vrhnjem a delicious mild herbal cream cheese made locally and well worth the 5Kn cover charge, which outshone the fresh but unmemorable salad that followed. My main course of girice, small fish covered in flour then deep-fried whole (akin to British whitefish) was surprisingly filling and absolutely delicious. Consequently, I resolved to return the next day to sample the lunch specials that had lured me in the first place.

Dining with a sense of expectation rather than hunger, I was able to appreciate the konoba (a Croatian term for a small inn or restaurant, usually with antique pretensions) and its surroundings to a far greater extent, its exposed stone walls, local paintings, and nautical bric-a-brac (including a very unusual wooden paddle-fish) to a far greater degree. The otherwise brusque proprietor seemed quite pleased to see me return, explaining that the konoba is usually quite easy to find as it sets tables out in a courtyard by St. Blaise’s Church, just off the Luža, the Old Town’s Main Square. As this courtyard is now torn up as the result of an archaeological dig, his business has declined significantly.

The grilled squid was extremely tasty and so fresh that might well have been caught, or at least delivered, earlier that day. Accompanied by braised mangold (a kind of spinach) and potatoes, it made for an extremely hearty, yet simultaneously light lunch, which I repeated on my final day in Dubrovnik. Other patrons told me the seafood was some of the best they had enjoyed in Croatia and I’d certainly agree. Based on my experience with their vegetables, however, I’d caution you that Konoba Penatur’s terrestrial dishes are not particularly outstanding. Likewise, the generally friendly service was adequate but no great commendation in itself. Overall, Konoba Penatur is delicately poised on the correct side of the division between touristic and charming, and consequently I’d highly recommend it to any seafood lover looking for an inexpensive, and traditional, meal in Dubrovnik’s Old Town.