June 14, 2003
It’s not particularly grand (white painted wrought iron tables and plastic chairs, paper napkins etc) but the view can’t be faulted – along the Ljubljanica river or across to the Preseren Trg. to the pink Franciscan church and the back of Preseren’s head from where he stands on his plinth. The menu is entirely fish-based with my favoured dishes focussing on the grilled squid which is quite divine and very reasonable for the fair-sized portions (c1200TL or £4/$6). The "special of the day" did not change for the several days when I went there so anticipate the possibility that swordfish steak with potatoes and veg may be a fixture of sorts (c1400TL or £5/$7). Grilled whitebait or mini-herring was also very good but I’d steer away from the "shrimp" which were in fact re-formed fish in shrimp-shaped deep-fried breadcrumb (in fact, as a general rule, anything fried was less good than its grilled counterpart). Large ice-cold beers are about £1.50/$2.50 and a carafe of passable house red or white about £3.50/$5. The only other slight disappointment was an uninteresting green (and I mean just untreated – possibly unwashed - lettuce leaf) salad at £2/£3.50.
Top tip – when you’ve had as much fish as you can manage for lunch, head back up the steps and round the corner into the outdoor fruit and veg market where the fruit (particularly the strawberries and cherries) are quite cheap and make an utterly delicious al fresco dessert.
It’s open from about noon until about 4pm (by which time the selection available will also have dwindled a bit – the wet-fish shop is also closed by then) and not at all for dinner. Clientele seemed a mix of solo businessmen, tourist couples and lunching locals. Obviously it is also tremendously well-placed for the main sights.
From journal Beloved Ljubljana