Plunked right in the middle of the old town on the corner of Piazza Dante, Commerciante is a pleasant, warm, stop on your tourist jaunt around the maze of alleyways in the Altstad (old city). After peering into the Sant Antonio chapel around the corner, we slipped into the what seemed an attached glass sun room to the restaurant facade. The same cobblestones of the square filled this tiny room as did miniature black tables and chairs mostly for only two people.
Our first stop here was at the hum of the lunch hour and the cafe buzzed with tourists, local shoppers, harried businessmen, and rushed waiters and waitresses. No one seemed to be impatient or disgruntled, only a lot of hungry people being cared for by a fluid working staff. Feeling in the way, we opted for refreshemnt and decided to return at a less frantic moment.
Later we returned around 2pm after a visit to the the spetacular view from the train station by way of one of two rack cable cars from the city up the mountain. Saited customers lingered over coffe and wine and we entered our sun room to find it no longer had walls, but was open to the piazza. More and larger tables had been added and the staff seemed be cut in half. A quick waiter named Mario bowed and asked for our order. The menu here is quite varied from soup and sandwiches, to three course luncheon, and the favorite is the hand slung pizza of maybe 30 selections.
If you had to peruse the entire menu it might be time for dinner, so best bet is to scan the menu afixed to a huge bulliten board out front, before choosing a seat. We chose at first a bowl of steaming goulash we had seen earlier being served, only to find out that only thing served between 2 and 5 was pizza. So we settled on a salami pizza and wine and beer.
Our pizza arrived promptly and hot hot, on a metal pie plate and with two small saucers. Loads of cheese piled high with slices of tangy salami. (15 franks incl. drinks about 10 dollars) Our water was cordial, but seemed to have trouble with English, while his German worked just fine. Seems to be a locals cafe, you know they say always go where you see all the crowds.
The enterior of the cafe coverd almost half the block back and the facilities were located in the basemment after manuvering the maze of pink clothed tables stuffed in every corner. Customers brought in their dogs and lounged in the cafe up and down the row of tables on the left part of the street and the jumble of tables to the front. They will accept your MC or Visa, but not for less then 10 franks. A great place to while away a few minutes, sip your beer and people watch, except at the lunch hour.