Of the numerous ways to experience Ticino's many similarities to neighbouring Italy, my favourite is sampling the local cuisine, which much commonly features polenta or risotto instead of the fondue or rösti more usually encountered elsewhere in Switzerland. As one of the biggest cities in the canton, it is perhaps unsurprising that Lugano is home to many establishments that serve tasty regional fare, including the excellent and justifiably highly regarded La Tinèra.
The restaurant is located in a basement on a narrow side street within the city's old town. Despite being quite small inside, it nevertheless attracts a large number of both residents and tourists. The combination of size and popularity not only means that making a reservation is highly advisable, but also that sharing a table with another party is a possibility. Whether or not the method of making the most of the limited space available enhances the generally very intimate atmosphere probably depends on the people thrown together. However, that the friendly service and the appealing rustic décor add to the pleasant ambience is beyond any doubt whatsoever. In fact, the overall effect is extremely reminiscent of the most cosy of Italian trattorie.
Therefore, it really is quite fitting that the items on offer would also not seem too out of place in a traditional eatery on the other side of the border in Lombardy, although it is Ticinese specialities that predominate. The hearty food tends to make ample use of ingredients such as homemade pasta and goes very well with the rather decent and robust locally produced merlot. One unusual and practical idea that more places really should imitate is that the wine is not available by the bottle or glass, but instead arrives at the table in a ceramic carafe, and the cost is then determined according to what is actually drunk. Finally, an additional bonus is the overall price, which is very reasonable by Swiss standards, especially considering the generous nature of the portions.