‘Cafe’ Casablanca is obviously angling for more than a local clientele; its Continental menu and extensive wine cellar rise to the levels demanded by upscale international travellers. Sample listings:

‘Smoked Salmon Spring Rolls;’

‘Rack of lamb brushed with dijon and crusted with herbed breadcrumbs, served with lightly-cooked veggies and merlot lamb jus’;

‘Charbroiled ostrich medallions’;

‘Dover Sole stuffed with feta cheese and baby beet greens’;

‘Fraser Valley free-range chicken, lightly coated with olive oil and charbroiled with mushroom ragout’;

‘Blackened red snapper with tomato basel sauce’.

This is no ‘cafe’ --- it’s serious dining in a very nicely appointed room. Quality red table linens and silverware contributed, as the two rows of picture windows looking out over the harbor. A few of the tables were uncomfortably close to the front desk and lobby bar, but except for a fleet of transit buses once every half-hour the window table where I was seated was quiet. (Isn’t it nice for a single diner to be seated at a preferred, four-top table without even asking?) Beyond my table was a semi-private area for banquets and private parties.

I had the same server both nights. On the second, she remembered exactly what pre-dinner cocktail I preferred and how I like my salad and main course to be timed. (She even remembered to forget the cherry in my Manhattan.)

The wine list had the expected French and Italian names, but also included many not-generally-recognized, but VERY good, reds and whites from the Pacific Coast, both Canadian and American, along with some Chilean wines. A trophy case near the restaurant entrance displayed many of the most-highly-prized bottles, along with awards Cafe Casablanca had won for its wine cellar. Another nice touch: Although many restaurants restrict wines by the glass to a few ‘house’ reds and whites, I was offered a far greater choice, with the added option of ordering by the half-carafe.

I had a seafood special my first night, the ‘rack of lamb with merlot jus’ the second. Both were superb. Had there been a third night, I’d have probably gone for the ostrich; prepared right, it tastes like beefsteak but has only about 25% of the fat and cholesterol.

Even if you’re not staying in the hotel, come here at least once for dinner.