Perched on the switchback-crazy ascent of the Jura’s Col de la Faucille is the handsome Refuge de Florimont. We visited on a crisp autumnal lunchtime and were rewarded with the restaurant’s spectacular view over the Pays de Gex and Lac Leman, reaching to the striking outline of the Mont Blanc massif some 50 miles or so east. We wandered across the terrace where hardier souls than us dined alfresco. We are excused such foolhardiness now that we have the little Tomato in tow, however many snowsuits, hats, and blankets he’s buried under.
The interior of the restaurant is something of a talking point should you arrive without your conversational topics preplanned. The wooden beams, pillars, and walls are adorned with hand-painted berries and woodland motifs, with the occasional vintage wooden ski and snowshoe to remind you just where you are (should you have missed the big mountain just outside the window). The roaring wood burner fills the room with a haze of smoke. Mood is everything; I immediately feel as if I’ve trudged through the snow or done something appropriately wintry and energetic rather than carried a small baby across from the car park. "My cheeks are ruddy… bring me warming sustenance!"
We had come in search of gadget-based dining so popular in this region of Europe. The Florimont offers fondue (whose proliferation in the 70s is one of a limited number of things to be thankful for from that particular decade), raclette, and our choice of the day, pierrade. The Father of the Blonde chose a wine from the village of Arbois, just over the other side of the Jura. It was crisp and rustic and went down so well that we had to have another.
The assorted components of the pierrade dining experience began to arrive, and I ensured that the little Tomato was tucked well out of the way under the table. Bowls of potato gratin, green salad, and assorted sauces arrived closely followed by the sizzling hot stone slab along with the plates of raw meat. Some may argue that this is tantamount to laziness on the part of the kitchen, but it’s all part of the sociable dining experience. Think of it as an indoor barbeque without the singed eyebrows. We chose two different meat selections and ended up with a shared pool of steak, veal, duck, pork, and chicken – nearly a whole farmyard.
Pierrade dining can get quite frenzied, and it is important not to be too possessive about the pieces you throw on. I’ve seen friendships tested over the hot stone. Be patient and generous – your meat will come. Pierrade is a very social form of dining - there are natural pauses while your meat sizzles before you and time to discuss whether the decor falls just the right side of tacky.
The Florimont is a very affordable, atmospheric place to enjoy the regional specialties, with a stunning view thrown in for good measure.