Located near the cathedral, this restaurant is set back from the street, with an arched entrance covered in the summer by vines and studded with small, clear lights that twinkle invitingly. Two plaster cherubs guard the entrance, although their relaxed pose seems to imply that they’ve stopped by for a drink and a bite to eat. While the exterior is of modern glass and lights, the interior is much more rustic with lots of dark wood and chunky, dark furniture. It reminded me of a German wine cellar, except for the walls where, with typical French flair, just about every square inch is covered in artwork.The menu is an intriguing mix of German and French specialties. Tarte flambee (similar to quiche), salad Nicoise, beef and béarnaise, sauerkraut, melon and smoked-ham salad, and pork hocks were just some of the entrées listed on the multi-page menu.
I had bouchee, chopped chicken and veal in a delicious cream sauce served in puff pastry and decorated with fresh herbs. Included with the meal was a separate bowl of egg noodles and a basket of rolls. Diners at the next table ordered salad Nicoise and pork and sauerkraut. The salad was served in a huge white pottery bowl, more than enough for two hungry people to share or four to six to sample as an appetizer. The sauerkraut and pork was another huge portion with eight types of pork – wurst, hock, ribs, etc. It was served in a big iron pot over a brazier to keep the meal warm.
Desserts were too tempting to pass up, although it was a difficult choice with offerings like crepes, crème brulee, and apples in pastry with raspberry sauce. I’d highly recommend the apple pastry, as not only was it delicious, but flambéed with Calvados brandy, it was a wonderfully dramatic finish to a very good meal.
Prices for an entrée average about 12€ and my meal, along with a one-fourth pichet of house wine and dessert, came to 20€. On weekdays the restaurant has lots of specially-priced meals including an appetizer and main course or main course and dessert for 13.80€, or an entrée and wine for 15€.
Dauphin is a nice place to stop just for a drink, but the large portions, good prices, and pleasant service make this an even better bet for dinner.