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Chez Ali

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NikiM
NikiM
First Reviewer
3 out of 5
Avg. Member Rating
1
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4
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Chez Ali

  • March 2, 2004
  • Rated 3 of 5 by NikiM from London, United Kingdom
Chez Ali

Chez Ali is described as a Berber Fantasia: "magical, grandiose, and spellbinding."

While Marrakech town is filled with the heady aromas of freshly ground spices, the sounds of snake charmers, and 1,001 cafes, restaurants, and riads to satisfy your every gastronomic need – why Chez Ali was even built, let alone popular, is beyond me.

Saying that, it’s a must see. About five miles outside Marrakech you join another 50 coaches and minibuses at the ramparts of a replica fort at 9pm. You enter into the main quadrant between two lines of authentic Berber horsemen, straddled across their steeds, leaning menacing rifles on their thighs. An eclectic mixture of local musicians and belly dancers accompanies your walk into the castle enclave, but tarry not – you’ll be noisily serenaded by all of them during dinner!

You arrive at your designated ‘tent’ (one of 20 or so permanent Aladdin-esque marquees). If you booked direct, you’re more likely to sit a private table with your partner; else you’re seated at tables of 8-12. The four-course dinner is excellent, considering the 2000+ people they can cater for. Harira soup, lamb tajine, seven-vegetable couscous with chicken, petit fours, and the juiciest oranges you will ever eat. Wine, beer, and soft drinks are cheap, but local white wines all seem to be medium-sweet. Mint tea is plentiful.

After dining and being serenaded for about an hour, you are led to your stone seats (cold in winter!) around the main arena. The Fantasia proper starts with a belly dancer on a central platform, followed by the aforesaid Berber horsemen showing their acrobatic horseback skills. They re-group in fours and after galloping the length of the arena, fire those rifles. Doing this three times was fine but ten times became a little monotonous. Camels, music and more belly dancing follow. The finale is Aladdin flying on his magic carpet, high across one end of the arena (not exactly Disney; more like two mannequins on a carpet pulled by wires) accompanied by fireworks. It’s 45 minutes maximum and then it’s back to the coaches.

Although tour reps will swear that the locals go to Chez Ali, I think they mean that they go to work there! It is a prime tourist attraction and only enjoyed if your tongue is firmly in cheek. Reservations are required during spring/autumn.

From journal Long Weekend in Marrakech

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