This is one of several fairly simple restaurants to retire to for a lunchtime tagine or an afternoon apple tea, to rest or to watch the sun go down (or perhaps just to get away from the melee for a little while if it all gets too much). It's on the NE edge of the square and particularly sees quite a lot of coming and going from the Qessabin mosque next door -- in fact, at some times of the day, shortly after the muezzin calls the faithful to prayer ("Allah Akbar"), an eerie silence falls nearby as groups of men
armed with prayer mats take up position for the ten minute service.
As to the restaurant itself, try to bag yourself of the two rows of tables facing out from the restaurant onto the square (which helps to minimise bickering as to who gets the view!). There is no rooftop terrace nor is the
view panoramic of Djemaa El Fna but you can peacefully observe people coming and going and, if you are minded to talk to fellow travellers, it's a better set up to open conversation/pick their brains/share experiences.
Food is pretty cheap and cheerful and best of all there's no set menu to
have to battle through if the heat has taken away your appetite (and the set
menus have also shot up in price recently -- we didn't see one under about
120Dh/£8/$11 in October 2003). Prices here are very reasonable and you can
mix and match - tagine (made with predominantly chicken/"meat" (which
usually means lamb, mutton or occasionally goat)/veggie or couscous (with
all or any of the aforementioned) for about 40Dh (both of which come with
healthy helpings of veg in them too (carrots, potatoes, squash of some
description, olives, celery or whatever seems to have been in the vegetable
tray on that day!) or skewers of chicken with salad; soups (most famously of course, spicy harira, made with lamb stock and lentils) which is an utter bargain at about 15Dh and may very well fill you up at lunchtime if you dunk into it the great rounds of bread (ask them if they have the bread with cumin seeds sprinkled on top) of fresh and chewy bread, which tastes great with the soup. It's not licensed for alcohol but I'd recommend the drinks with dates and nuts (which turned out to be delicious and refreshing milkshakes). There's also a selection of fizzy drinks, OJ etc, mint and apple tea.