Although I suspect that its proximity to the funicular linking Zagreb’s Upper and Lower Towns has something to do with its popularity, the quality, diversity, and hearty portions of Slavonian specialties seem to be what attract regulars and casual visitors alike. Often ignored by visitors who head directly to the Dalmatian coast and its Mediterranean cuisine, Slavonia constitutes the northeastern portion of Croatia and is known for meaty far more akin to the national cuisines of Hungary, Austria, and Serbia, which is typically washed down with the region’s excellent wines. Appropriately, Vallis Aurea consists of a reasonably spacious bar (to your left as you enter from the street) serving a wide selection of the regions viticulture marvels and a dining room (reached by continuing straight from the entrance) that resembles a charming, whitewashed wine cellar.

While the food is generally excellent, I should warn you that the stodgy štrukli (boiled pockets of dough filled with cottage cheese and topped with a combination of flavored cornstarch and sour cream) were not to my taste and may not be to yours either. The hearty grilled meats, a staple of all Balkan cuisine, accompanied by boiled vegetables, were quite tasty. My personal favorite, however, was actually Šibenik pašticada, which, as its name implies, is actually a dish typical of Dalmatia. It consists of beef and bacon cooked in vinegar, wine, and prunes, accompanied by small chewy pasta resembling German spätzel. I ordered it as one of their daily 30Kn lunch specials, meaning that it is not always available, although it’s difficult to go wrong with anything on the menu, as long as you know what you’re getting into!

Open daily 9am to 10pm. Credit cards accepted. Despite the crowds, the courteous wait staff always manages to find room.