The Kronenhalle isn’t just a restaurant; it’s a monument – albeit to fine food and service. It’s as much a part of the cultural history of the city as other monuments and still as wonderful as it was the day it opened. Long the property of the Zumsteg family, the Kronenhalle was a favorite hangout for artists and writers such as Friedrich Duerenmatt, James Joyce, and Marc Chagall. In fact, over the years, the Zumstegs bought many paintings from their artist friends–an especially striking Miro hangs above a sofa in the bar, and there is an exquisite Chagall oil over my favorite table at the back right side of the dining room.
But, of course, the Kronenhalle is not all atmosphere and paintings. Kitchen chef Peter Schaerer makes sure the food is equally up to par. The food ranges from the simple to the elaborate – I was shocked the first time I had dinner at the Kronenhalle to see that bratwurst (veal sausage) and roesti were on the menu. My friend Anita, with whom I always go there, explained that many of the regulars eat out in fancy restaurants all the time and need a break from it once in a while. Don’t think that all the food is simple and earthy, though. Every day, there are specials on the elegant silver cart that circles the dining room, or you can have a house specialty, Robespierre, a rare fillet of beef sliced thinly and arranged on a hot plate, with a luscious sauce poured over all. Those roesti are always available and make a great accompaniment to many of the meat and fish dishes. Excellent local and Mediterranean fish are also always available.
Of course, the Kronenhalle is a paradise for lovers of Swiss wines, and excellent French and Italian wines are also not neglected. I always like to start out an evening at the Kronenhalle with a visit to the bar to unwind. Prize-winning bartender Peter Roth presides over the elegant bar designed by Robert Haussmann, with exquisite lamps and fixtures made by Swiss artists Diego and Alberto Giacometti. Have your regular favorite cocktail, or let Peter propose one of his inventions. Peter’s associate, Hildegard Muellner, also adds a welcoming warmth to the bar. I have to confess that I don’t ever do it except at the Kronenhalle, but I usually also end the evening with a brandy or liqueur at the bar after dinner. In fact, I would sleep at the Kronenhalle if they let me!
By the way, do call a few days in advance for a reservation, as you can’t just walk right in and be assured of a table.
Restaurant Kronenhalle
Raemistrasse 4
Ch-8001 Zurich
Phone from the US: 011 411 251 6669
Fax from the US: 011 411 251 6681
Website: www.kronenhalle.com